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2006-03-23T22:27:00.000-05:00

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2006-02-28T15:20:00.000-05:00

This blog disappeared from the Web earlier this month. Since we couldn't fix it, we started a new blog, which you can find permanently at: http://www.dreamofitaly.com/public/42.cfm

More Torino Accommodations Options

2006-02-05T21:54:00.000-05:00

Again, I don't know these two people at all, but they have homes available for rent during the Torino Winter Olympics so I thought I would pass along their information for those still looking:

Azia Sartirana (e-mail: aziasar@yahoo.it) It's a very beautiful apartment in Sauxe d'Oulx with eight beds. The price is 300 euros a day and 4000 euros for all of the Olympics.

Emanuele Salusso (e-mail: esaluss@yahoo.it) Has a luxury one-bedroom apartment, completley furnished, with a big hall and kitchen. It is located 150 meters from Turin's Piazza Gran Madre, just across the Po River, and about a 10-minute walk from Piazza Castello. Asking 300 euros per night or 3500 euros for the duration of the Games.

Torino Ticket Sales Gathering Steam

2006-02-02T13:08:00.000-05:00

Winter Olympics organizers report they have sold 690,000 event tickets, out of a total of 1 million, according to Reuters. Italians began buying more tickets in January - some 100,000 - for a total of 300,000 tickets. They will make up the largest delegation of spectators followed by Americans and Germans.

Fire Up The 'Copter Dahling, We're Going to the Games

2006-01-31T22:07:00.000-05:00

One thing that scares me about attending the Olympic Games -- the traffic! While officials are doing their best to limit car traffic anywhere near the event sites, I'm afraid these mountain roads just weren't made for moving crowds like this. That's why if you have the money, the best way to arrive at the Games is by helicopter!

If money is no object, Classic Vacations has just the package for you: stay in a private villa in Tuscany or Umbria and get to the events in and around Torino via helicopter.

From their Web site: "Depending on the villa selected, travelers can simply walk outside their door to the helicopter, eliminating additional transfer time to another location. The helicopter can accommodate up to five passengers, and offers breathtaking views of the regions of Tuscany and Piemonte during the two-hour trip. And same-day departures and returns mean vacationers can join the crowds for an event and retreat immediately afterwards to their secluded and peaceful home away from home."

No prices are listed on the site (how tacky would that be?) but I hear the package is priced at about $100,000. Does that include event tickets?

Alitalia Wildcat Strikes Called Off

2006-01-27T16:49:00.000-05:00

Whew! Just as I get ready to buy my tickets to Turin on Alitalia, the Associated Press reports that the airline workers who were responsible for this week's wildcat strikes have agreed to call them off.

Apparently, there may still be some delays on Alitalia flights this weekend as maintenance workers catch up, but everything should be okay well in time for the Olympic Games.

Torino: Private Apartments Are Best Option

2006-01-26T20:42:00.000-05:00

As I mentioned earlier this week, the best option for securing accommodations ate the Olympic Games is to rent an apartment from a private owner. Bookmark this page on the Dream of Italy Web site because we keep updating it with new offerings. Here are a few that arrived in my e-mail today:

Maria Prat (e-mail: mprat@med.unipmn.it) is a local professor who is renting a double bedroom (with a private bathroom) in her Turin apartment, located five minutes from the Porta Nuova Train Station. She offers daily breakfast as well as high-speed Internet access. She is asking 700 euros per week for two people.

Andrea Dellavecchia (e-mail: andrea.DELLAVECCHIA@iveco.com) has a one-bedroom apartment with a washing machine and satellite TV available. It is located in Turin's Piazza Gran Madre, just across the Po River, and about a 10-minute walk from Piazza Castello. He's asking 350 euros per night.

Toot, Toot ~ Torino!

2006-01-26T03:56:00.000-05:00

If there's ever a time to toot my own horn, 4 a.m. should be as good as any. Your favorite insomniac is perusing the Web for up-to-the-minute information on travel to Torino - (oh dear, I have gone to the other side, somewhere around yesterday, I gave up the fight to call it 'Turin'!). Just found out that USA TODAY quoted me today on those wildcat strikes in Italy. Here's an excerpt:

"It's the perfect time for the workers to bring attention to their issues," said Kathy McCabe, editor and publisher of a subscription travel newsletter, Dream of Italy, in Washington. "It's the worst time for the government."

Berlusconi, who is in a tough re-election campaign, had wanted to showcase the Olympics.

"This is a huge black eye for Berlusconi," McCabe said, because the strikes are occurring at the same time there is a last-minute demand to travel to the Olympics. "It's playing into a stereotype. It's Italy ...is a striking nation. They'll call a strike, then call it off, then call it again and call it off."

Here's some of the other great publicity Dream of Italy has received this past week:

Hear Kathy McCabe on Turin on Travel Hub Radio This Thursday

I'm Talking Turin on Peter Greenberg's Radio Show

Our Olympics Info. Page Recommended on Jaunted.com!

Our Olympics Info. Page Recommended on Gridskipper.com!

Uh, About That Strike Truce for the Olympics

2006-01-25T13:33:00.000-05:00

As I have told you before, the Italians like to strike or at least threaten a strike -- not as much as they used to -- but it is still in their blood. Over the past week or so, wildcat strikes by Alitalia workers opposed to splitting off the company's ground operations, have disrupted flights. One strike two days ago paralyzed Turin's airport.

As Reuters reports today, Prime Minister Berlusconi, who must get this straightened out to save Italy's and his own reputation, is walking a very delicate line in making accusations about the unions' (who agreed to a strike truce for the Olympics) potential involvement in these latest actions.

So what does this mean for those of you (and me) traveling to the Olympics? I hope I am not being naive, but I am still planning on buying a ticket on Alitalia to fly to Italy in early February. They happen to have the only non-stop from Washington, DC to Milan. Those of you who have a choice, may want to book on another airline. But as I told a newspaper reporter this morning, I have been to Italy nearly 20 times and have never been caught in a strike (knock on wood), so I am optimistic.

BUT always pays to be informed -- these are wildcat strikes, so there may be no warning of them -- but if and when you're traveling to Italy, it is a good idea to check the Italian's Government's Strike Authority Web site.

Where to Stay in Torino? Private Apartments

2006-01-25T11:22:00.000-05:00

Forget staying in an hotel in or around Turin for the Olympic Games -- focus instead on renting a room or whole apartment from a private owner. I believe this is the best way to get last-minute accommodations. I can't personally vouch for any of the owners I am listing, so use caution, but have had good communications with all that I am listing here. See post below and the new apartment I just added:

Umberto Scotti (e-mail: Umberto.SCOTTI@iveco.com) has a 2-bedroom apartment in the center of Turin, less than 1 km from where the medals ceremonies will take place. It is currently unfurnished, but he will put in the beds, sofas, tables that you require. He'a asking about 4,800 euros for the duration of the Games, but willing to entertain offers.

Finding Last-Minute Rooms at the Olympics

2006-01-23T16:54:00.000-05:00

How do I know so much? I spent all weekend securing my own accommodations! Keep checking this space for the very latest (I will have more information on private owners renting apartments):

Cartan Their packages cost nearly $1,000 per person, per night for a stay in Turin, about half that for their "mountain program."
CoSport (also official U.S. agent for event tickets)
Craig's List (Milan) This is how I found the apartment I am renting for the duration of the Games!
Expatriates.com Private owners have a few apartments listed.
Extra Torino Hotel rooms in Turin starting at 270 euros per night. Rooms in mountain lodgings starting at 320 euros a night.
ItalyWinterGames.com They have a number of apartments still available in Turin, including the center. Prices start at $160 per person, per night.
Jumbo Grandi Eventi
Ludus Tours Has more availability in the mountain towns.
Mary Nicotra (e-mail: maria.nicotra1@tin.it) is a Torinese resident who has a number of apartments available in decent locations for decent prices. Tell her what you are looking for and she can find what you need.
Montagnedoc
Select Italy They have apartments still available in Turin and mountain towns, at about $5,000 per week. They still have hotel rooms in Turin at $500 and up per night.
Somewhere Tours Has a a double room in a centrally located Turin apartment for 280 euros per night.
Vacation Rentals By Owner Worth a search for "Turin" and some e-mails, but I only heard back from one owner and her apartment is taken.

Ten Things You Don't Know About Turin

2006-01-23T00:58:00.000-05:00

In just a few weeks the eyes of the world will be turning to an Italian city that has long been overshadowed by its larger and better-known cousins. But as host to the XX Winter Olympics, Turin (or Torino in Italian) may finally be getting its day in the sun. Italians and foreigners alike often think of Fiat (the Italian carmaker) and Agnelli (the family who built the company) when they think of Turin yet, this city is hardly the Detroit of Italy. From world-class museums, to charming baroque architecture, to some of Italy’s best cuisine, Turin is a city of surprises. Here are some fascinating facts about Turin:

Turin is considered a “city of magic.” Lying on the 45th parallel, Turin is, one of the three vertexes of the triangle of white magic with Prague and Lyon, and of the triangle of black magic with London and San Francisco. Other reasons: Nostrodamus lived here. The Holy Grail is said to be buried in Turin.
Turin’s Museo Egizio holds the second-largest collection of Egyptian artifacts outside Cairo.
This city is a chocoholic’s dream destination! Giandutto, a blend of chocolate, hazelnuts and sugar, and a pre-cursor to Nutella, was invented here. Sample the luscious offerings of chocolate-makers Cafferel, Ferrero and Stratta.

For the rest of the list, click here

Update: Turin Event Tickets

2006-01-21T09:28:00.000-05:00

My editorial assistant is very thorough and I had her look into the status of purchasing Olympic Event tickets in the U.S. (through CoSport - the official seller here). This is what she found:

Many event tickets have sold since I last checked, and many more events are completely sold out at all ticket price levels (certain competitions for speedskating, snowboarding, skiing, figure skating). I suppose it is more important for you to know what IS still available:

opening and closing ceremonies (only most expensive level: $1,260 for opening, $910 for closing)
freestyle skiing
figure skating pairs short program
figure skating men's short program
the figure skating gala (towards end of competition)
women's snowboarding
biathlon
women's speed skating
women's downhill skiing
figure skating
ice dance competition
cross-country skiing
curling
women's ice hockey quaterfinals, semifinals (available in the most expensive ticket level)

Another way of looking at this: out of the Type I (more coveted) tickets available on CoSport, 50 events have sold out completely (out of 86 events); for Type II tickets on CoSport, 34 events out of 89 have sold out.

Travel Hints from Slowtrav Founder

2006-01-19T16:55:00.000-05:00

I've told you how much I enjoy the Slowtravel Web site and their sister site Slowtalk. I've been a part of their community for a few years now and every year founder Pauline Kenny adds more bells, whistles and real substance and makes both sites better and better. She recently shared some of her philosophy for enjoying travel at a "slow" pace. These are greats tips for anyone planning a visit to Italy:

Don't try to see Rome, Florence, Venice and Siena in ten days. Choose one or two vacation rental accommodations for a two-week stay. Plan some excursions in nearby neighborhoods or towns. Enjoy the simple pleasures of shopping for groceries and taking in the local culture.
Spend some time trip planning. Read the guidebooks, books written by expats living in the country, novels by locals. All these give you the "feel" for a place. Book a tour of a winery, or an art workshop. These are the "extras" that can make a trip memorable.
Think like a local. Avoid heavily toured sights during peak hours.Focus instead on visiting markets, parks, and neighborhoods.
If popular sites are on your must-see list, you can tour during off-hours. Staying in arental for a longer period affords you the luxury to have a stress-free vacation.
Above all, take it slow. Your vacation is all about you and yourcompanions. Don't feel bound by other travelers' rules. If you want to spendevery morning in the local café, do that. If you want to spend the daydriving and exploring, do that. There are many ways to vacation, find the one that you like best.

I'm Talking Turin on Peter Greenberg's Radio Show

2006-01-18T13:44:00.000-05:00

Want to find out more about planning a last-minute trip to the Turin Olympics? Tune in this Saturday, January 21 when yours truly appears on Peter Greenberg's Travel Today Radio Show. As many of you know, Greenberg is the NBC Today Show travel editor (Do you know he travels over 400,000 miles a year?)

The show airs 10 a.m. to noon ET. Go to www.traveltodayradio.com, enter you zip code and find out the station in your neck of the woods. Otherwide, you can download the podcast at www.iradionow.com or www.knews970.com and click on the 'listen' icon to hear the show while it is live.

Turin: City of Museums

2006-01-17T01:24:00.000-05:00

One of the reasons I love Turin is for its museums. Turin is home to some 40 museums, most of them world-class. Turin's most famous musuem may be Museo Egizio, home to the best collection of Egyptian artifacts outside of Cairo. On my November trip to Turin, I visited the Museo del Risorgimento - the average visitor might find this museum a little dry, but as a student of Italian history, particularly during the period of Italy's reunification, I thoroughly enjoyed my visit. One highlight is the chamber that served as Italy's first parliament.

Olympic visitors are in luck - three of Turin's museums have reopened in time for the Winter Games:

Palazzo Madama, (see photo above) an art museum that contains a famous staircase constructed by Filippo Juvarra, has reopened in order to serve as the offices for the International Olympic Committee (IOC) during the Games.
Museo Nazionale della Montagna (Mountain Museum) reopened on International Mountain Day (December 11th) and boasts more modern facilities as well as a panoramic view of the mountains overlooking Turin.
Ameria Rele di Torino (Royal Armour), housed in Palazzo Rele houses some 1,200 arms that once belonged to the Savoy family.

What's On in Florence

2006-01-17T01:15:00.000-05:00

Italy's ANSA news agency reports the following exhibitions are taking place in Florence:

Palazzo Pitti: Mythologica et Erotica (Mythology and Eroticism) at the Museo degli Argenti (SilverMuseum) until May 15, 2006. The show features 213 works fromItalian and foreign museums. The range of works on display isremarkably wide with paintings, murals, sculptures, ceramics,prints, jewellery, coins and various other precious items -all depicting erotic stories from ancient mythology.

Archivio di Stato: Leonardo da Vinci: The True Image; the life of Leonardo is recounted in a series of documentsand letters collected for the first time in this new show.One of the highlights is the only record of his birth onApril 15, 1452; until January 28.

Museo dell'Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore (Duomo): Arnolfo, The Origins of the Florentine Renaissance, 100 works charting the career of great architect Arnolfo di Cambio and his influence; until April 21.

For more information on Florence, see Dream of Italy's Special Report: Florence, published in June 2005.

NBC's Today Show in Rome Feb. 6th

2006-01-17T01:06:00.000-05:00

If you're in Italy February 6th and a fan of NBC's Today Show, you might want to head over to Rome's Piazza Navona, reports ExpatsinItaly.com. The popular morning show will broadcast from the piazza from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. local time.

Strike Truce Called for Turin Games

2006-01-12T18:23:00.000-05:00

All of the major Italian labors have agreed not to strike while the Winter Olympics Games and Paralympics are taking place in Turin. According to the Associated Press, "The truce will last from Jan. 31 to March 23 and includes a prevision allowing strikes March 4. Local Turin unions signed an Olympic no-strike clause in November."

The AP adds, "The truce will also ban telecommunications and railways protests, Betti said. Local protests outside the Turin area concerning labor disputes that have no impact on the Olympics will be allowed, he said, offering a bus strike in Rome as an example."

Vanity Fair: Elba is Hot

2006-01-11T15:21:00.000-05:00

The February issue of Vanity Fair names the Tuscan island of Elba, as the next "it" destination for jet setters:

Swim, tan, and shop. Napoleon's favored vacation spot, Elba, part of the Tuscan Archipelgo, in the Tyrrhenian Sea, is emerage as the destination resort for travelers from around the world. While Europeans have long ferried to the fish-shaped isalnd for its soft white-sand beaches, private rocky enclaves, quaint boutiques, and amazing gelato, the rest of us are only now just getting in on the secret.

"Turin" vs. "Torino"

2006-01-10T21:54:00.000-05:00

My poor friend Paul. We're about to enter into a period of true hell for him. You see, one of his biggest pet peeves is when people, especially newscasters, say "Torino" rather than "Turin" - the English version of the city name. He was moaning and groaning about this months ago and well, he's about to hear it a whole lot more often in the coming two months...

Paul has some allies -- Jeanne Cooper, the travel editor of The San Francisco Chronicle -- states her case against "Torino" in a recent column entitled, "You say Torino, I say Turin, let's call the whole thing off." Here are some of her key points:

My point is that when we're speaking English, it makes sense to do it whole hog. We don't say "The Colosseum is in Roma," or "Michelangelo's David is in Firenze," or "Gee, there are a lot of tourists in Venezia." So why make an exception for Turin?
When sportswriters talk about "Torino," it may signify nothing more than affectation, or ignorance of the city's long existence before the Olympics. But I fear that with Americans' love of figure skating, they'll hear or read "Torino" often enough to start spreading the ignorance around.
My Merriam Webster's Collegiate Dictionary, 10th edition, has a separate section for geographical names, where it lists "Turin" as the first choice, and "Torino" (marked It, for Italian) as the second. Shouldn't that be enough?

So Paul, rest assured that you are not alone, but I fear you and Ms. Cooper are facing an uphill battle.

Short Takes: News From Italy

2006-01-10T02:03:00.000-05:00

The law outlawing smoking in Italian restaurants, bars and offices turned one last week. Cigarette sales are down 10%. (more)
The Italian town of Narni, 50 miles north of Rome, is hoping to cash in on the popularity of the newly released film The Chronicles of Narnia. Town leaders are convinced that C.S. Lewis, who probably never visited Narni, had their town in mind when writing his famous book, as it was called Narnia in Roman times. (more)
The world's oldest map will go on display in Turin February 8. The 1st-century-BC Papyrus of Artemidorus, which contains a map of a trip to Spain by a Greek geographer, can be seen at the city's Palazzo Bricherasio. (more)

Securing Turin Tickets: Is This Way Worth the Risk?

2006-01-10T01:33:00.000-05:00

Last week, The Wall Street Journal reported that numerous event tickets are still available for the Winter Games in Turin. I noted with interest some advice printed in the article's sidebar:

Buy your tickets directly through the Olympic Committee at torino2006.org and ship them to a friend in the European Union. There are tickets available from around $23.

I wondered if this might be a good alternative to purchasing tickets through CoSport, the official ticket vendor in the United States, which along with foreign sales agents in other countries, is allowed to and does charge about 20% over the face value of the ticket. (European Union residents can purchase tickets at face value.) I meant to get back to researching this, but last night read an interesting post from Seth Zurer (yup, related to Jim -- see below -- Seth is his son) of Select Italy on Slow Travel's Italy forum:

At Select Italy, we've had some experience researching and ordering tickets for the games. As far as EU delivery, the ticketing agency is being very persnickety about delivery. They're sending all tickets by courier and the person receiving the tickets must be able to demonstrate that they are the same person that ordered them or they must fill out a notarized "delego" form to officially name another recipient. The couriers are going to call the recipient by cell phone before delivery to make sure that the person will be there to accept delivery. They explicitly rule out dropping off the tickets with doormen, porters, or in a lobby. So, unless you actually live in Europe, it'll be hard to get the tickets you order.

Is Naples Safe?

2006-01-08T22:14:00.000-05:00

One of our contributing writers, Italian travel expert Jim Zurer, who wrote about Palermo in our special report on Sicily (Sept. 2005), lends his expertise on the safety of visiting Naples in today's Charlotte Observer travel section:

Jim Zurer, owner of Zurer Travel -- a Washington agency specializing in trips to Italy -- says the popular Piazza Garibaldi is also a spot in which to stay alert.

Zurer cautions, however, that a bigger safety concern than street crime is Naples' traffic. He warns pedestrians to be careful when crossing busy streets.

And while it's hard to avoid thinking about the city's reputation for organized crime -- a discussion most in the tourism industry tend to avoid -- Zurer says that tourists won't even notice it.

"I would liken it to Washington, D.C.," he says, "where drug gang activity, as far as it exists, is far from the tourist centers."

In the October 2005 issue of Dream of Italy, travel writer and cookbook author David Downie revealed The Best Little Pizzerias in Naples.

Italy in 2006

2006-01-06T16:30:00.000-05:00

Looking for a reason to travel to Italy in 2006? Here's a list of some of the best events Italy has to offer in the New Year:

*Torino Olympic Games: February 10-26th – The world will be watching Torino this February as it hosts the XX Olympic Winter Games.

*Carnevale di Venezia: February 17-28th – Venice lives up to its reputation as a city of masks during two weeks of decadent balls and parades.

* The Italian Motorcycle: A Century on Two Wheels Between Art, History and Sport: through March 12th – Milan's Fondazione Antonio Mazzotta will host an exhibition of paintings, photographs, and models covering 100 years of the role of motorcycles in Italy.

*Giro d'Italia: May 8-29th – Italy's equivalent of the Tour de France, the Giro d'Italia winds cyclists from Reggio Calabaria to Milan in pursuit of the maglia rosa.

*Naples Pizzafest: September 8-18th - Naples celebrates the creation of pizza with two weeks of concerts,shows, and great deals at pizzerias throughout the city. -- Shauna Maher

The Turin Olympics: By the Numbers

2006-01-05T22:42:00.000-05:00

• 17 days of competitions: from February 10 to 26, 2006;
• 15 disciplines: biathlon, bobsleigh, Nordic combined, curling, freestyle, ice hockey, figure skating, speed skating, ski jumping, Alpine skiing, cross-country skiing, short-track, skeleton, luge and snowboard;
• 7 competition sites: Torino, Bardonecchia, Cesana, Pinerolo, Pragelato, Sauze d'Oulx, Sestriere;
• 3 Olympic Villages: Torino, Bardonecchia and Sestriere;
• 84 titles at stake;
• 85 National Olympic Committees;
• 2,500 athletes;
• 2,500 coaches and national team officials;
• 2,300 representatives of the IOC, National Olympic Committees and Federations;
• 650 judges and umpires;
• 10,000 media;
• 6,000 guests of sponsors;
• 1,500,000 spectators.

Source: http://www.torino2006.org/evento/content.php?idm=100098

December 2005/January 2006 Issue

2005-12-29T23:27:00.000-05:00

Our paid newsletter subscribers will be reading the following articles in the current issue of Dream of Italy:

All Aboard! Rome to Venice on the Orient- Express
Venetian Enchantment Resides at Ca Maria Adele
Florence's Ferragamo Museum Celebrates the Art of Shoes
A Foray Inside a Florentine Deli
Book Review: An Italian Housewife in Hollywood

Prosecco and Piazzas: Ring in the New Year in Italy

2005-12-29T23:24:00.000-05:00

This is an excerpt from the December 2005/January 2006 issue of Dream of Italy:

New York’s Times Square isn’t the only square that knows how to throw a New Year’s Eve party. Italy’s city squares offer less flashy alternatives to the raucous New York crowds. On December 31, locals and tourists convene in piazzas throughout Italy to ring in the New Year with groups of friends and bottles of Prosecco. Those looking kick off 2006 in Rome should head over to the Piazza del Popolo, in the north of the city, where celebrations include performers, fireworks, and concerts.

Festivities in Florence take place throughout the city center, in Piazza della Signoria, Piazza del Duomo and Piazza della Repubblica. In Siena, residents pile into Piazza del Campo for a concert. San Gimignano rings in the new year with the help of the bells in its famed towers (and of course some Vernaccia). For more than the standard concerts and firework displays, crowds head to Bologna for La Fiera del Bue Grasso, or the Festival of the Fat Ox.

Venice’s St. Mark’s Square floods with people awaiting the ringing of the Campanile bell tower at midnight, making New Year’s Eve perhaps the only time all year that people outnumber pigeons. For those who prefer to avoid the crowds all together, hotels and restaurants throw black-tie gala dinners. After all the spumante has been sprayed, brave “polar bear” swimmers take to the chilly waters off Venice’s Lido Beach on New Year’s Day. Participants are rewarded with traditional lentils said to provide luck for the upcoming year.

Whether you join the crowds in St. Mark’s or stay for celebrations stateside, when making plans for the last night of the year, keep in mind an Italian saying – Quel che fai a capodanno, lo fai tutto l’anno! What you do on New Year’s, you do all year long! -- Shauna Maher

CIA Team Stayed in Style While Working in Milan

2005-12-28T00:46:00.000-05:00

Have you been following the news reports about the arrest warrant issued for Central Intelligence Agency (CIA) operatives who apprehended a terrorism suspect (Abu Omar) in Italy in 2003 and whisked him out of the country for questioning? According to a recent Chicago Tribune article, those CIA agents traveled in luxury while working in Italy. Italian prosecutors say the CIA spent "enourmous amounts of money" were spent (mostly in Milan) on lodging and food for its people. Here's a summary from the Tribune:

Number of operatives tracked: 20
Length of stay: From 5 to 42 days
Total room charges: $158,096.56
Where police say operatives stayed - Jan. 8-Feb. 19, 2003; amount spent at each for room charges:
Westin Palace $40,098.81
Principe di Savoia $39,995.36
Milan Hilton $21,266.67
Milan Marriott $17,089.29
Star Hotel Rosa $15,280.95
Excelsior Hotel Gallia $5,595.24
ATA Hotel Executive $4,951.19
Four Points Sheraton $4,928.57
Others $8,890.48

The Olympic Torch: On the Move in Italia

2005-12-19T18:38:00.000-05:00

The Olympic Torch will spend the next two months on a circuitous route, touring 140 Italian cities, from theAlps to the boot. Passing through the hands of more than 10,000 runners over 6,300 miles, the torch will make an appearance in everyprovince and every region. The torch passed through Tuscany last week. The entire route can be found on the official website (www.fiammaolimpica.it), along with a diary of the flame's journey, updated with pictures and stories from each city it passes through. -- Shauna Maher

Gift Idea: FREE DVD with Subscription or Gift Subscription

2005-12-12T17:36:00.000-05:00

Do fall into one of these categories?

You're looking for the perfect gift for the
Italophile on your holiday gift list?

You've been meaning to subscribe to the Dream of Italy newsletter?

You're planning a trip to Italy in 2006 and want the inside scoop on where to go and what to do (information you won't find in guidebooks)?

You're already a paid subscriber, but need to renew your subscription?

If the answer to any of these questions is "yes," now's the time to subscribe to the paid print newsletter, Dream of Italy, The Insider's Guide to Undiscovered Italy.

Each holiday gift subscription (we will send out the gift around Dec. 18th) or personal subscription comes with a FREE DVD set of the PBS documentary Inside the Tuscan Hills -- worth $25. The six episodes take you on an enchanting journey through the workshops, vineyard, kitchens and villas of Tuscany.

And of course a one-year subscription to the newsletter comes with 10 issues over the next year, as well as, and this is the best part, online access to over 28 back issues of the newsletter -- hundreds of pages of savvy and exclusive travel information. If you or a loved one is planning an Italian escapade, you won't want to miss this! CLICK HERE to subscribe or purchase a gift subscription.

Gift Idea: Exquisite Italian Note Cards

2005-12-12T17:32:00.000-05:00

When I was in Italy last month, I was on the hunt for elegant stationery as well as Italian Christmas cards. All of the cards I saw were either low quality or outrageously overpriced. When I returned to the U.S. and received samples of Allison Cross' Italian card creations, I not only ordered a half-dozen sets for myself, but I asked her if she would be interested in selling her work through this Web site. Allison is an art historian and travel consultant who has lived and worked in Italy.

These note card sets are perfect for your own use, but I guarantee any Italophile would also enjoy receiving them as a gift -- we offer special gift wrap! Here are some of the choices:

Allison's beautiful Christmas cards feature Italian
monuments, such as Rome's Pantheon or Florence's Duomo, and angels.

Her photo note cards bring both Venice and the Italian countryside alive.

But my favorite note cards are those of the ceramic studio.

Gift Idea: Venetian Glass Jewelry

2005-12-12T17:29:00.000-05:00

Do you have an angel in your life? If so, show her how special she is by giving her our elegant and unique Venetian Glass Christmas Angel
Necklace. (Note: I get stopped whenever I am wearing mine and recently was maid of honor in a wedding where all the bridesmaids wore these angel necklaces!) You can choose the color(s) of your angel as well as whether you want it to hang on 24 karat gold or silver wire.

Dream of Italy Designs also has other elegant pieces that make perfect gifts: Murano Glass Slide on Freshwater Pearls, Glass Leaves on Italian Leather Bracelet, Jet Black Geometric Pendant Neckace, Antique Chain Brass Necklace, Coin Slide Earrings, and much more...

Catch the Holiday Spirit at Italy's Christmas Markets

2005-11-29T13:46:00.000-05:00

At Christmastime, Italians take to the streets to complete their holiday shopping in the seasonal open-air markets found in most cities. The markets offer traditionalfoods, handmade toys and antiques, as well as Christmas ornaments, poinsettia plants and other holiday decorations.

While the major city markets are widely publicized, most small villages and towns also hold similar markets each December. If you’re not going to be near one of the markets listed below, you’re still bound to stumble upon a local Mercato di Natale if you follow your nose toward the characteristic sweet smell of the castagne, or chestnut vendors.

Milan’s famous antiques fair, La Fiera di Sant’Ambrogio, fills the streets from December 7 to 22. In Naples, artisans set up shop on via San Gregorio Armeno to sell prespi (nativity scenes) and figurines. Romans spend the weeks before Christmas shopping for toys, sweets and holiday decorations at the Mercato di Natale held in Piazza Navona from December 8 through January 6.

Perugia holds the Mercatino delle Strenne (literally, Little Market of Presents) on Via del Circo (in the historic city center) from December 4 to 24. Florence’s Mercato di Natale caters only to last-minute shoppers, as it begins on December 23, but Florentines can spend their vacation days shopping in Piazza Santissima Annunziata until Epiphany on January 6. - Shauna Maher

November Issue - Special Report: Turin and Piedmont

2005-11-29T13:35:00.000-05:00

Thinking of attending the Winter Olympics in Turin? Don't do anything else until you read the November issue of Dream of Italy, where we give you the latest 411 on securing hotel rooms and event tickets. Also find out what's still available at bargain rates!

Also in this special report:

Piedmont is Wine Country: Three Vineyards to Visit
On the White Truffle Trail
Native Son: Nutella
Turin's Grand Hotel Sitea
A Turin Tour for Every Passion

Our November Sponsors

2005-11-25T14:44:00.000-05:00

The following companies have made the current issue of Dream of Italy possible:

Amalfi Life - trip planning for "The Insider's Amalfi Coast"
Chiantionline - olive oil from the heart of Tuscany
Dream of Italy Designs - fine Venetian glass jewelry created by the masters
Italian Renaissance Travel - illuminating Italy for the sophisticated traveler
Italian Vacation Villas - personalized villa rental service from Italy specialists
La Bella Toscana - apartment and villa rentals in and around San Gimignano in Tuscany
Sally Watkins - Travel + Leisure has named her own the nation's best travel agents!
Zurer Travel - plan your next trip with Jim Zurer, a passionate Italy specialist

New Web Site, Special Offer

2005-11-11T09:00:00.000-05:00

We haven't been blogging because we have been working on our revised Web site. Buy a new newsletter subscription or gift subscription and receive a FREE 2-DVD set of the PBS documentary Inside the Tuscan Hills!

Chillin' and Thrillin': See Italy In A Ferrari

2005-10-25T13:04:00.000-04:00

I was a guest on The Debbie Nigro Show this morning. Her radio program is syndicated throughout the U.S. as part of the Lifestyle Talk Radio Network. She runs a "Chillin' and Thrillin'" segment at the end of each show and wanted to talk to me about touring Italy in a Ferrari -- a topic we covered in the current issue of Dream of Italy. Red Travel runs these extravagant tours!

Click here to listen to the broadcast. The Chillin' and Thrillin' segment is at the end of the hour.

Our October Sponsors

2005-10-24T15:30:00.000-04:00

Special thanks to those companies that made this issue possible:

Chiantionline - olive oil from the heart of Tuscany
Dream of Italy Designs - fine Venetian glass jewelry created by the masters
Italian Renaissance Travel - illuminating Italy for the sophisticated traveler
Italian Vacation Villas - personalized villa rental service from Italy specialists
La Bella Toscana - apartment and villa rentals in and around San Gimignano in Tuscany
Sally Watkins - Travel + Leisure has named her own the nation's best travel agents!

October Issue

2005-10-24T15:21:00.000-04:00

The October issue of Dream of Italy is just about out...Our paid subscribers will be reading the following articles:

The Best Little Pizzerias in Naples
On the Waterfront in Naples (the hotels and restaurants of Santa Lucia)
The Dream Interview: John Berendt, author of The City of Falling Angels
Cypresses and Cylinders: Italy By Ferrari
Caravaggio Captures Milan
New Hotels on The Horizon

Delta Adds Flights to Italy

2005-10-18T09:35:00.000-04:00

In an effort to improve its financial situation (airlines have far more pricing power on international routes) and to take on American, British Airways and Continental, Delta has announced that it will be adding a significant number of new international routes this year and next. The New York Times gives details:

In May, Delta plans to add flights from Kennedy to Budapest; Dublin and Shannon, Ireland; and Manchester, England. Flights from Atlanta to Edinburgh; Nice, France; Venice; and Athens will also start in May. In June, Delta wants to add service from New York to Kiev, Ukraine, contingent on approval in both countries. Delta had previously announced other new international routes from Atlanta, including Tel Aviv, beginning in March; Düsseldorf, Germany, in April; and Copenhagen in May. Delta also said yesterday that it would add another summer-only flight from Atlanta to Shannon, and extra service from New York to Rome, giving it 11 flights a week between New York and cities in Italy.

Deciphering Italian Hotel Ratings

2005-10-09T10:52:00.000-04:00

Any frequent visitor to Italy knows that the star ratings for Italian hotels can be a bit sketchy. A hotel billing itself as a 5-star might resemble a decent 3-star, a 2-star may turn out to be more exceptional than the 4-star next door. A feature in the September issue of Conde Nast Traveler explored how various countries allocate stars to lodgings, saying about Italy:

Italian hotels are evaluated by regional boards, and standards vary from region to region. In its online accommodations guide, the Italian tourism board aways from one to five stars. The top two categories are five-star and five-star deluxe. Unfortunately, the criteria by which properties are judged are not specified.

The magazine goes on to recommend Michelin Red Guide to Italy as a good resource for rating properties.

Clooney's Casa on Lake Como

2005-09-26T16:23:00.000-04:00

Saw a commercial on ABC today previewing Diane Sawyer's visit to George Clooney's villa on Lake Como. Tune in to PrimetimeLive Thursday night for a peek at George's Italian digs!

September Issue - Special Report: Sicily

2005-09-26T16:21:00.000-04:00

The September issue of Dream of Italy is a 12-page special report on one of Italy's hottest destinations -- Sicilia:

Sicily's Aeolian Islands Inspire Relaxation
Island-By-Island: What to Do in the Aeolians
Navigate Palermo Like A Native
Get Out of the City: Day Trips From Palermo
Down the Rabbit Hole: An Accidental Agriturismo
Highlights of Sicily: Agrigento, Caltagirone, Giardini Naxos, Siracusa

Our September Sponsors

2005-09-26T16:18:00.000-04:00

Special thanks to the following companies:

Adagio - catered journeys for curious souls
Chiantionline - villa rentals, organic olive oil and information about Chianti
DaVinci Capers - a personal Renaissance journey - sculpt, cook, draw, explore Tuscany
Dream of Italy Designs - fine Venetian glass jewelry created by the masters
Italian Renaissance Travel - illuminating Italy for the sophisticated traveler
Italian Vacation Villas - personalized villa rental service from Italy specialists
La Bella Toscana - apartment and villa rentals in and around San Gimignano in Tuscany PrimaVillas - villa rentals and more, including cooking classes, drivers and language schools Shop Wine and Dine - small group tours and our partner at the 2005 Luxury Travel Show Traveling Tuscany - tours, weddings and cooking classes

Coming to America: The Bible of Italian Cuisine

2005-09-20T11:12:00.000-04:00

For those of us that can’t make it to Italy this season, traditional Italian home cooking will find its way into our English-speaking kitchens with the publication of an Italian cookbook staple, The Silver Spoon.

True, there is certainly no dearth of Italian cookbooks in circulation in America, but nowwe can get our oven-mitted hands on what Italians consider the Bible of cooking. The Italian language version, Il Cucchiaio d’Argento, has provided over 2,000 recipes to the finest Italian chefs and mothers for over half a century. The illustrated cookbook, which has sold over two million copies since its first edition in 1950, has never before been translated.

Considered byItalians as a perfect gift for newlyweds, The Silver Spoon divulges the ingredients for countless Italian dishes, including 80 different sauces and 220 dolci! These secrets on preparing the finest Italian piatti will be available foronline order from the publisher Phaidon beginning October 1, and will hit American bookshelves later in the month at the price of $39.95.

Italian speakers can get a preview on the official site, www.cucchiaio.it, where free registration brings you access to features such as the top 10 viewed recipes, (Penne Gialle –made with saffron - tops the list.)

-- Shauna Maher

Mangia! The Story of Sicily's Pasta alla Norma

2005-09-12T17:51:00.000-04:00

In honor of the September issue of Dream of Italy which doubles as a special report on Sicily:

Sicily is world-renowned for its distinctive and delicious cuisine, and one of the most characteristic dishes is pasta alla Norma. This pasta can be found all over the island, and is made with eggplant, fresh basil,and ricotta salata, or “salted ricotta,” a traditional regional cheese that is pressed, dried and aged for at least three months, to give it a nutty, sweet, milky flavor.

Pasta alla Norma has a story almost as great as its taste. The dish is undoubtedly named for Vicenzo Bellini, a native of Catania, and his masterpiece opera, Norma. There are two main stories of how the dish received its name, however. The first is that a Sicilian chef was so moved upon seeing Bellini’s Norma, he immediately returned to his kitchen and created this tasty pasta.

The second, and more probable, states that some of Bellini’s compatriots were so impressed by the opera that they began using the superlative una vera Norma, “a real Norma,” to indicate something exceptional or superior. Years later, when author Nino Martaglio first tasted this traditional Sicilian dish, he praised it by naming it “pasta alla Norma.” The result is a typical, delicious Sicilian dish that is as representative of the local culture as it is of the local cuisine.

Want to make pasta all Norma for the folks at home? Here's a recipe.

-- Cailin Birch

Visit Us At New York's Luxury Travel Expo

2005-09-11T23:01:00.000-04:00

Visit the Dream of Italy booth at the Luxury Travel Expo at the end of this week in New York City. We will be in booth #111, where you can enter to win a FREE trip to Italy!

Mystery Celebrity Wedding in Bellagio??

2005-08-31T14:16:00.000-04:00

I knew my love for the New York Post gossip columns would come in handy sometime...

Gossip maven Cindy Adams reports that a notable American actor will be getting married in the next few days at the church in Bellagio, that lovely town on Lake Como.

According to Ms. Adams:

NOW, listen. A huge, large hotshot ce lebrity wedding may take place within the next few minutes. In Italy. Just a scrapbook away from George Clooney's Lake Como villa. At the church in Bellagio. Who it is, even I — the eyes, ears and mouth of the world — do not know. The thing's an even bigger secret than Where's Waldo or Osama. I only know that monsignors and bishoplets are running around acting important and hinting and winking. But saying nothing other than "It's a big American actor."

I leave the rest of the details to Us Weekly, People, Star, National Enquirer, Globe, "ET," "Access Hollywood," "Extra," Hello, OK!, InStyle, In Touch, Out of Touch, You Touch, I Touch, We All Touch, whatever . . .

HBO's "ROME" Premieres This Sunday at 9 p.m.

2005-08-25T13:50:00.000-04:00

From the HBO Web site:

The year is 52 B.C. Four hundred years after the founding of the Republic, Rome is the wealthiest city in the world, a cosmopolitan metropolis of one million people, epicenter of a sprawling empire. The Republic was founded on principles of shared power and fierce personal competition, never allowing one man to seize absolute control. But now, those foundations are crumbling, eaten away by corruption and excess. The ruling class has become extravagantly wealthy, with a precipitous decline in the old values of Spartan discipline and social unity. There is now a great chasm between the classes. Legal and political systems have weakened, and power has increasingly shifted to the military.

After eight years of war, Gaius Julius Caesar has completed his masterful conquest of Gaul, and is returning to Rome. He brings with him legions of battle-hardened, loyal men, unimaginable riches in slaves, gold and plunder, and a populist agenda for radical social change. The aristocracy is terrified, and threatens to prosecute him for war crimes if he enters Rome. The delicate balance of power lies in the Senate with Caesar's old friend, partner and mentor, Pompey Magnus.

Such is the situation when two soldiers of Caesar's 13th Legion, Lucius Vorenus and Titus Pullo, are ordered into the wilds of Gaul to retrieve their legion's stolen standard, the unifying symbol of Caesar's legion, setting off a chain of circumstances that will entwine them in pivotal events of ancient Rome. An intimate drama of love and betrayal, masters and slaves, and husbands and wives, ROME chronicles epic times that saw the fall of a Republic and the creation of an empire when it debuts SUNDAY, AUG. 28 (9:00-10:00 p.m. ET/PT), exclusively on HBO.

A co-production between HBO and the BBC, ROME is one of the largest co-production deals ever by the BBC for an American series, and marks the first series co-production of the two networks. HBO and the BBC previously partnered on the 2001 miniseries "Band of Brothers," which won six Emmy® Awards, including Outstanding Miniseries.

"You rarely see onscreen the complexity and color that was ancient Rome," says co-creator, executive producer and writer Bruno Heller. "It has more in common with places like Mexico City and Calcutta than quiet white marble. Rome was brightly colored, a place of vibrant cruelty, full of energy, dynamism and chaotic filth. It was a merciless existence, dog-eat-dog, with a very small elite, and masses of poverty. We see the same problems today - crime, unemployment, disease, and pressure to preserve your place in a precarious society. There's the potential for social mobility, if you're smart.

"Human nature never changes," continues Heller, "and the great thing about the Romans, from a dramatic perspective, is that they're a people with the fetters taken completely off. They had no prosaic God telling them right from wrong and how to behave. It was a strictly personal morality, and whether or not an action is wrong would depend on whether people more powerful than you would approve. You were allowed to murder your neighbor or covet his wife if it didn't piss off the wrong person. Mercy was a weakness, cruelty a virtue, and all that mattered was personal honor, loyalty to yourself and your family."

ROME was shot throughout Italy, with Michael Apted ("Coal Miner's Daughter," "The World Is Not Enough") directing the first three episodes. Additional directors include Allen Coulter (HBO's "The Sopranos"), Julian Farino (HBO's "Entourage"), Jeremy Podeswa (HBO's "Carnivale"), Alan Poul (HBO's "Six Feet Under"), Mikael Salomon (HBO's "Band of Brothers"), Steve Shill (HBO's "The Wire"), Alan Taylor (HBO's "Deadwood") and Timothy Van Patten (HBO's "Sex and the City"). Among the actors starring in the first season are Kevin McKidd ("Kingdom of Heaven") as Lucius Vorenus, Ray Stevenson ("King Arthur") as Titus Pullo, Ciaran Hinds ("Road to Perdition") as Gaius Julius Caesar, Kenneth Cranham ("Gangster No. 1") as Pompey Magnus, Polly Walker ("Patriot Games") as Atia of the Julii, James Purefoy ("Vanity Fair") as Mark Antony, Tobias Menzies ("Foyle's War") as Marcus Junius Brutus, Lindsay Duncan ("Under the Tuscan Sun") as Servilia of the Junii, Indira Varma ("Kama Sutra: A Tale of Love") as Niobe, Max Pirkis ("Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World") as Gaius Octavian and Kerry Condon ("Angela's Ashes") as Octavia of the Julii.

Joe Begs to Differ...About August in Rome

2005-08-12T15:27:00.000-04:00

If you've been reading this blog since the beginning, you will be familiar with my friend Joe who feels passionately about Rome. He responds to my most recent post below:

The reason why it's a terrible idea to visit Rome in August is that there are no Romans in Rome. Who wants to go to Rome--or Paris or Munich--and only meet tourists? A city isn't buildings and monuments. It's people. Rome's LIVING cultural life--the arts and music--comes to a standstill. The dining scene withers in August because so many of the places close for all or part of August and that truly curtails your ability to do one of the best things in Rome: Find a remarkable place by accident.

Yes, the streets are quieter and you might actually try to drive (although why I don't know) and the hotels are actually affordable in August. But that's because Rome is a shell of itself in August. Going to Rome in August is like going to Vegas and claiming you've been to Rome because you stayed at Caesars Palace.

Might I suggest that if visitors want to experience Rome at a good time, they try November 1-December 15 or mid-January to late February. The Romans are there, the city's living culture is there. The restaurants are all open. The hotel rates are almost as good. The weather is wonderful (November/early Dec) or good (Jan/Feb). And Rome in these periods is almost as quiet as in August--except that it's the tourists, not the Romans, who are gone.

And if I have to chose to visit Rome when the tourists are gone or visit Rome when the Romans are gone, what do you think I'm gonna pick?

Point well taken Joe and that's why I am sharing it here. I guess I might say that if the only choice you have is to visit Rome in August, you can still get a flavor for the city, but not the best, as Joe says. Another great time to visit Rome -- February -- as I did this year. Rates are low and the city does belong to the Romans.

The Olympics of Extra Cheese a.k.a. The World Pizza Championships

2005-08-06T14:30:00.000-04:00

The Washington Post reports that Pizza Marketing Quarterly will run two tours to the April 2006 World Pizza Championships in Salsomaggiore, Italy (near Milan). Sign me up!!!!

Here are the details as reported by the Post:

The World Pizza Championships in Salsomaggiore, Italy, are like the Olympics of Extra Cheese. About 20 international teams will descend on this tiny resort spa town south of Milan on April 3-5. "You just wouldn't think that such excitement over food would exist," says Amanda Brandon, managing editor of PMQ Pizza Marketing Quarterly, which sponsors the U.S. Pizza Team, one of two American teams,"and it's not just the eating part, it's the sports part, too."

The competitors, who advance to the international event through national trials, compete in five categories: fastest pizza maker, largest dough stretch, freestyle pizza tossing and best pizza (traditional and gourmet).

PMQ Magazine has organized two tours -- one for the pizza obsessed, the other for those who want Italian sightseeing with their pie. On the former tour, guests travel with the team and attend the full roster of competitions, the highlight being the acrobatic pizza tossing, which is held at night at a disco. The itinerary includes a city tour and two nights in Milan; a day's excursion to Pisa; the final banquet dinner; and pizza samples. The latter tour visits Milan, Venice and Pisa and spends a day in Salsomaggiore for three of the pizza competitions. Cost for both tours is $2,500 per person double, including round-trip air from New York. Space is limited. Info: 662-234-5481, http://www.worldpizzachampionship.com/

If you don't want to travel en masse, the championships are free and open to the public (the gala requires an invitation). Salsomagigore has various lodging options, plus spa centers and upscale boutiques. For information on the area, plus details on the competition, see the town's tourism Web site at http://www.commune.salsomaggiore-terme.pr.it/

The Lowdown on Visiting Italy in August

2005-08-04T15:05:00.000-04:00

The entire city of Rome shuts down. It’s difficult to find a spot of empty sand on any beach. The heat is unbearable.

Although each of these statements is based on a grain of truth, these are some of the popular misconceptions about visiting the land of la dolce vita during the month of August, the most important vacation time of the year for Italians.

The average Italian citizen gets 42 days of vacation per year. Most Italians take at least a week or two off each August, and many are on vacation for the entire month. Businesses shut their doors for all or part of this vacation period. In fact, the productivity of the entire country takes a dive during the eighth month of the year. The Italian national statistics institute reports that production falls by approximately 50% in August and the volume on the national stock exchange reportedly diminishes by a third.

But just because Italians are on vacation doesn’t mean you can’t be. Here’s what August is really like:

It just might be one of the best times of the year to visit Rome. The streets are empty (half of the city’s population leaves town). All of the major sites are open. You’ll find many restaurants and shops still welcoming tourists, although most are closed for some portion of the month. If you ever wanted to drive in Rome, now is the time. Reservations at the city’s great hotel restaurants (see the January/February 2003 issue of Dream of Italy) are easy to come by. Because Rome is a major international capital, it must keep chugging along, even in August, but you can still enjoy it at a much slower pace.

Crowded beaches, yes, but a great time to visit inland towns. It might not be the ideal time to visit the beaches of Sicily and Sardinia, as many hotels are booked up as much as a year in advance. But this can be the ideal time to visit Italy’s inland hill towns, especially in the south. Southern Italians who left their villages for work in the north or even to move to the United States often return home in August.The streets come alive with summer festivals and the evening passeggiata (walk around town) is even more lively, and the weather in the hills is lovely.

Which brings me to the next point …

The heat? That depends on your definition of hot. For a visitor from Washington, D.C. (where the summer heat and humidity can truly be unbearable), Italy's typical August temperatures hovering at around 80 degrees Fahrenheit can be downright delightful comparatively. Your perception of Italy’s August weather all depends on where you are coming from. One way to ensure your comfort in case the temperatures shoot up is to make sure that your rental car and hotels have air conditioning.When all else fails, just take a siesta. In a sense, that is what the month of August is for all of Italy.

A final bit of advice, based on personal, frustrating experience. Don’t attempt to drive on any of Italy’s major highways, including the biggest, the A1, on any Saturday during August. Instead, flip on the television and watch as newscasters present special programming and live shots of the mass exodus of cars from the nation’s cities. Even if you can’t understand Italian, you will get the point that these traffic jams last for hours.You’ll be happy you’re not among those experiencing the August traffic nightmare.

Great Rates at Rome's Intercontinental

2005-08-02T15:55:00.000-04:00

My mother and I were visiting Rome a few summers back, in August as a matter of fact. (August in Rome can actually be wonderful -- I'll post an article I wrote about the pros and cons of visiting Italy in August.) We were looking to try a new hotel and the Intercontinental Hotel de Ville was running a special summer promotion, so we stayed there.

The hotel's location can't be beat -- right next to the famous Hotel Hassler -- at the top of the Spanish Steps. The rooms were plush and luxurious. I'm happy to see that the Intercontinental is still offering summer deals. Visit before September 6th and you may pay as little as 199 euros per night! Ask for the "Luxury Escapes" rates.

Shopaholics Alert: New Outlet Center Opens in Tuscany

2005-08-01T15:16:00.000-04:00

Valdichiana, the long-planned outlet shopping center located in Foiano, located 40 km south of Arezzo, opened on July 16th, creating another designer discount destination in Tuscany. The outlet village features 20,000 square miles of shopping in the “perfect Tuscan style,” as it was designed using architectural styles and materials that are distinctively Tuscan. In fact, this shopping village is actually organized like a small town, with a number of streets and piazzas, each with their own name. You can enter at the Porta Leopoldina on the Piazza Maggiore and stroll down the covered Via dei Portici, past such stores as Benetton, Zara, Calvin Klein, Basile, Swatch and dozens of other Italian and international designers.

To reach Valdichiana, exit the Autostrada A1 (which runs from Rome to Florence) at Valdichiana and follow the signs to Foiano. Or take the S.P. 237 (which runs from Siena to Perugia) and exit at Bettolle. The outlet village is 90 km south of Florence and 160 km north of Rome. Opening hours on Monday are from 2 p.m. to 8 p.m., and from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Tuesday through Sunday. For more information, e-mail info@valdichianaoutlet.it or call (39) 0575 649926. -- Cailin Birch

The Single Girl's First Trip to Italy

2005-08-01T14:24:00.000-04:00

The Washington Post travel section launched a new feature in yesterday's edition -- "Your Vacation in Lights," a place where travel section readers share what the details of their most recent trips. Well the inaugural contributor to this feature happens to be a friend of a friend -- Kerry Jo Richards. Her report -- "A Trip to Italy is a Single Girl's Best Friend" -- is a fun read and will definitely give you ideas for your next trip to Tuscany.

Special Thanks to Our July/August Sponsors

2005-07-27T16:35:00.000-04:00

Adagio - catered journeys for curious souls - save 10% on Spa Tuscany by Aug. 15th
Chiantionline - villa rentals, organic olive oil and information about Chianti
DaVinci Capers - a personal Renaissance journey - sculpt, cook, draw, explore Tuscany
Dream of Italy Designs - fine Venetian glass jewelry created by the masters
Giovanni Musella's Limo Service in Rome
Italian Renaissance Travel - illuminating Italy for the sophisticated traveler
Italian Vacation Villas - personalized villa rental service from Italy specialists
La Bella Toscana - apartment and villa rentals in and around San Gimignano in Tuscany
PrimaVillas - villa rentals and more, including cooking classes, drivers and language schools
Shop Wine and Dine- luxury oeno-gastronomic tours
Traveling Tuscany - tours, weddings and cooking classes
Tripinsurancestore.com - discover how to protect yourself and your trip for pennies on the dollar

An Italian Pet Report

2005-07-27T12:09:00.000-04:00

Are you an animal lover? Ever wonder about Italians and their pets? While many Italians are passionate about animals – and indeed even travel with their cats and dogs – according to the Italian newspaper Corriere Della Sera, animal abandonment reaches a high during the summer months. Here are some facts about Italians and their pets :

6.9 million dogs, 7.4 million cats, and, in total, 59.5 million pets are owned in Italy. It is calculated that Italians spend roughly 3 billion euros per year on their four-legged friends.
Unfortunately, a good number of animals are abandoned every year in Italy, particularly during the summer months. You will see many of these poor dogs and cats particularly in southern Italy -- do them a favor and feed them a little something or give them some fresh water. The new law 189 allows for up to three years of imprisonment for abandonment of mistreatment of household pets.
Since October 1st of last year, European Union citizens are obliged to obtain a passport for their pets, (dogs, cats and ferrets only), when traveling from country to country.
All airlines have their own particular regulations, but animals (in crates of the appropriate size) are allowed on most all flights. Alitalia even allows small dogs to travel with you in the cabin! Once in Italy, keep in mind that boats, ferries, and Eurostar trains only allows small dogs on board. Most metropolitan buses allow dogs on board in the rear compartment of the vehicle—but they must have a ticket!
If you’re traveling by car with dogs, keep in mind that many rest stops do not have facilities that cater to animals, so it’s a good idea to bring your own food and water dishes for your pets.
Visit http://www.travelpets.com/ for a listing of Italian hotels that allow pets.

-- Cailin Birch

(Cooper, in the photo above, is the official Dream of Italy dog. Due to his passion for food and la dolce vita (i.e. lying in front of the air conditioner right now), this humble fox terrier is sure he was an Italian in a former life. If you ever call the Dream of Italy office, you might just hear him bark -- he likes to alert us that the phone is ringing.)

What Fate Roman Stones?

2005-07-25T15:47:00.000-04:00

Rome is caught between tradition and modernity; the famous basalt cobblestones that have lined the city streets since the 17th century may soon be replaced by smooth asphalt in all but a few piazzas and strictly pedestrian areas, according to a report by the Associated Press. This change in the historic landscape of the city has elicited mixed reactions from Romans—many feel a strong attachment to the historic cobblestones, which are a part of the city’s character, yet also recognize many of the problems they also cause.

The sampietrini, or “little stones of St. Peter’s,” are easily displaced, creating large potholes in the streets. Laying and repairing the stones is both an expensive and labor-intensive process, and the number of people trained to do so is rapidly diminishing, as well as the availability of the cobblestones themselves. Even more serious is the effect that the vibrations created by motor traffic passing over the stones have on the surrounding palaces, cathedrals, and monuments.

Maurizio Galletti, an official at Italy’s Ministry of Culture who is responsible for Rome's architectural heritage, said the vibrations had actually caused some small fissures in the frescoes of Rome’s grand Renaissance palaces. So Rome may be moving more toward the 21st century, but fear not, this tradition is not lost—the picturesque stones of Piazza Venezia, the large square in the heart of Rome, will be left in place. -- Cailin Birch

(Photo of Via Appia Antica courtesy of the Italian Tourist Board.)

Preview: Dream of Italy's July/August Issue

2005-07-20T14:54:00.000-04:00

The July/August issue of Dream of Italy will be out next week. If you're a paid subscriber, you'll be reading the following articles:

A Food Lover's Tour of Modena Begins with Balsamico
Emilia-Romagna's Best Restaurant
Spotted in Siena: A Dog's Tale of the Palio Horse Race
Beat the Crowds: Tips for Watching the Palio
The Latest Italian Cookbooks
Bargain Beds in Florence: This Family of Hotel-Residences Offer Incredible Deals

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Rome Wins Hearts

2005-07-20T14:35:00.000-04:00

"What's your favorite city in Italy?" That's the question I'm asked most often.

And my answer is always -- ROME.

That's the city that has captured my heart. I know there are Venice people and Florence people and you can sometimes tell a little bit about a person based on what city they chose as their favorite in Italy.

Turns out the readers of Travel + Leisure agree with me. They chose Rome as their favorite city in Europe in the magazine's World's Best Awards 2005. Rome was also voted as the third most popular city in the entire world, led only by Sydney and Bangkok.

Florence ranked second most beloved in city in Europe and fourth in the world. (Our special report on Florence -- published last month -- is available in our Dream of Tuscany folder which includes special reports on Chianti and villa rentals.)

Venice, didn't rank worldwide, but was voted fifth favorite city in Europe. Love Venice? Plan to visit La Serenissima soon? Subscribe to a year of Dream of Italy and receive our special report on Venice (published in May) AND the book, The Collected Traveler: Venice for FREE ($28 value!) Remember that ALL paid subscribers get online access to ALL of our back issues (25 in total!)

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Odds and Ends

2005-07-15T00:02:00.000-04:00

Tom Cruise and his captive Katie Holmes are in Rome this week as the expert on things psychiatric films scenes for Mission Impossible 3. That reminds me that I need to order my "Free Katie" t-shirt.
Do I dare say I had some of the best Italian food I have ever had in Washington, DC Monday night? I think so...Where? A new restaurant named Dino. I'll be reviewing it here next week.
I'm always telling people to book way in advance to see The Last Supper in Milan. Same thing applies to visiting Florence's Uffizi, especially with the rush of American tourists in Italy this summer. Rick Steves does a nice job of summing up how to make reservations for these sites.
One of the reasons I am bummed about not going to Italy during the summer months this year -- I won't miss the crowds however -- is missing the chance to see an opera at Arena di Verona. If seeing a massive operatic production under the moonlight in one of Italy's best preserved Roman amphitheaters doesn't make you an opera fan, nothing will.

New Ravello Hotel Offers Special DOI Deal!

2005-07-11T12:22:00.000-04:00

I attended an event two weeks ago at the Russian Embassy in Washington, D.C. sponsored by Orient- Express Hotels, Trains & Cruises. The company brought its top sales and marketing people from around the world to tell travel agents and the press about their latest offerings. I had the pleasure of meeting the delightful Andrea Filippi, regional director of sales & marketing for the group's Italian hotels, including Hotel Cipriani (Venice), Palazzo Venramin (Venice), Hotel Splendido (Portofino) and Villa San Michele (Florence).

Most importantly, he introduced me to the newest property in the group -- the renovated Hotel Caruso in Ravello, overlooking the Amalfi Coast -- which had just opened two days before! And best of all, he made an on-the-spot offer of a special deal for any Dream of Italy readers who would like to stay there!

From now until the hotel closes for the season in early November, mention Dream of Italy and receive a 4th night free when you spend three nights at the hotel! Filippi emphasizes you can receive this deal whether you book through your travel agent or through the hotel directly. He will inform his staff of this offer immediately. The offer is based on room rack rates and cannot be combined with any other special deal.

Next door to the Palazzo Sasso and sitting on a cliff above the sea, Hotel Caruso has a total of 54 rooms, including eight suites, 28 junior suites and 18 double rooms. More than 90% of the rooms have sea views and 15 rooms have private gardens. The hotel's open- air restaurant, The Belvedere, has a 360-degree view of the Amalfi Coast. Among the Caruso's luxurious amenities -- an infinity pool, gym and spa. Room rates begin at 420 euros per night, including breakfast.

Book Train Tickets Ahead of Time: ItaliaRail.com

2005-07-06T14:29:00.000-04:00

I love trains! My grandfather was a railroad engineer for 52 years and I grew up listening to his stories and could probably sing "I've Been Working On the Railroad" before any other song. I especially love to travel by train in Italy. Don't get me wrong -- I'm one of those people who actually likes to drive in Italy -- but there's no better (and usually cheaper) way to get from one Italian city to the next. I'm a particular fan of the Eurostar trains.

The most common questions people ask me about Italian train travel are: 1) Do I need to book reservations ahead of time? and 2) What's the difference between 1st class and 2nd class? To answer the second question first -- on Eurostar, there's not much of a difference. First class gives you a little more room -- for yourself and your luggage -- and you're given a free drink. I take such pleasure in train travel that I would like the optimum experience and usually spend a bit extra to travel in first class.

Now -- as for booking ahead -- here's when I think it pays to make reservations (and I'll tell you about a new option for booking from the U.S.) --
1) when you absolutely MUST get somewhere at a certain time -- say you're coordinating a train to get you to the airport for your flight home
2) if you're not an experienced traveler and like everything set up in advance
3) if you're traveling on a weekend, on a holiday weekend or on/near an Italian holiday weekend 4) if you're traveling in August (when Italians are traveling en masse themselves)
If you're a fairly intrepid traveler, you can book all of your tickets when you arrive in Italy but this might be cutting it close (especially if you fall into any of the above categories).

That's why you should know about ItaliaRail.com, the first North American Web site to offer a comprehensive, online selection to making reservations on the railroads of Italy at the lowest prices in the market. (Any of you who have tried to navigate the Trenitalia site are probably jumping up and down at this news!)

According to the folks at the new venture, "ItaliaRail.com now offers U.S. and Canadian consumers the same access to booking railroad tickets and passes as Italians have in their own country, and at the lowest price available in North America. At ItalialRail.com, consumers can make reservations online for travel throughout Italy, purchase train tickets and get documents to their doorstep within a few days. Travelers obtain not only regular city to city tickets inside Italy, but they can even get the convenient Trenitalia pass, which allows 4 to 10 days unlimited train travel throughout Italy during a span of 2 months."

If you use the site in the near future, please let me know how you liked it!

Attention: Cat Lovers

2005-07-05T14:11:00.000-04:00

Friends of Roman Cats, a nonprofit San Francisco-based group dedicated to helping homeless and abandoned cats in Italy and the U.S., is running its second Cats and Culture Tour of Italy. The tour will combine some of the best Italian cultural sites with some of its most interesting cat colonies. All profits from the tour will go to our programs to help the homeless cats of Italy.

Since 1991, Italy has had a law that bans killing healthy homeless cats and dogs (who also suffer tremendously, especially in the south). Stray cats live quite openly and are fed by numerous gattare (cat caretakers); others are cared for in sanctuaries. The FORC tour will visit some of these sanctuaries and observe how a different culture deals with its free-ranging cats.

The tour covers Venice, Padua, Florence, Arezzo, Bagno a Ripoli, Orvieto and Rome. The land-only portion of the 12-day tour is $ 2, 595 per person, plus a $300 tax-deductible contribution to FORC.

Florence at Your Fingertips!

2005-06-30T14:05:00.000-04:00

Florence Concierge Information is an indispensable bi-monthly guide published in Italian and English now in its 20th year. The complimentary booklet is compiled by Florentine hotel concierges and published by the Golden Keys Association, an international organization founded in France in 1929 (guides are also available in Bologna, Milan, Palermo, Rome and Venice).

Each issue is jammed with updated information on exhibits, museums, markets, concerts, trains, planes, sports, nightlife, rental cars, consulates, spas, feasts, and fairs, and is more comprehensive than anything at the tourist office – pick one up soon after your arrival at shops or hotels, including the Helvetia & Bristol, Villa Medici, Villa San Michele, J. K. Place, Mediterraneo, Sofitel and Lungarno (you don’t have to be a guest to request a copy from the reception desk). -- Barrie Kerper

Pucci's New Island Outpost

2005-06-30T04:51:00.000-04:00

Today's New York Times reports a new Pucci store on Capri:

Far from New York's steamy streets, Emilio Pucci has opened a turquoise colored boutique on the Italian island Capri, near the beaches where he began his career in the early 1950's. Inside are the classic graphic prints that elevate resort wear to high fashion worthy of the tropical getaway. At Via Camerelle 65, Capri, +39 081 8388200.

Dream of Italy's June Issue: Special Report: Florence

2005-06-28T16:48:00.000-04:00

Dream of Italy's June issue is hot off the presses! The entire 12-page newsletter is dedicated to what's new and undiscovered in and around Florence. All of our paid subscribers will be receiving their copies in the mail or via the Internet.

If you're not a subscriber, subscribe today and you will receive the June issue as your first newsletter and we will give you a FREE copy of A Romantic's Guide to Italy.

We know how many of you are planning a trip to Tuscany this summer, so we have put together a special "Dream of Tuscany" folder just for you. The executive folder includes copies of our special reports on Chianti, villa rentals and Florence (the June issue). You can purchase it here for $30 and we will send it out ASAP!

Meanwhile, here's what is covered in the June issue/Florence special report:

These Small, Elegant Florence Hotels Feel Like Home (four reviews)
The Real Room with a View (stay where the movie was filmed)
Eat and Learn at Olio & Convivium
This Latini Brother's New Osteria Isn't a Chip Off the Old Block
The Dream Interview: Faith Willinger
Villa La Pietra's Window on Florence, Past and Present
A Good Tour Guide Is No Longer Hard to Find
...and much more!

Florence Eateries: Favorite Finds

2005-06-22T12:05:00.000-04:00

In the June 2005 issue of Dream of Italy -- our special report on Florence -- Barrie Kerper writes about the unique objects (pale -- Wonder what that is? Read the newsletter and find out!) she finds hanging in select places in Firenze, including the following restaurant. Here she tells us a bit more about the cantinetta and her other favorite Florentine eateries...

The Cantinetta dei Verrazzano is the kind of place I’ve long dreamed about only I didn’t quite know it, or rather, I didn’t know such a wonderful place really existed. I really enjoy reading about restaurants and trattorie, wine bars and pizzerias, and I often plan a day’s itinerary around the locations of places to eat and drink. And I don’t just frequent places that are famous or hold Michelin stars; in fact, I would consider a trip a failure if it didn’t include a variety of eating establishments.

That’s why, when I visit Florence, I always stop at least once at I Fratellini, a sliver of a place that is more like a booth built into the side of the wall at via dei Cimatori 38r. Patrons simply select from the menu of crostini and panini and order a glass of Chianti of the same name and stand in the street and eat. What’s particularly Italian about it all is not only that the sandwiches and snacks are really delicious, but that there are little shelves carved out into the wall where you put your wine glass when you’ve finished. You simply cannot have this experience anywhere in puritanical America, and it should be noted that there are always children around, watching adults have a sensible glass of wine taken with food.

I have also very much enjoyed Trattoria Garga (via del Moro) , Cibreo (via dei Macci 118r) and Caffe Rivoire (piazza della Signoria 5), but my most favorite place, one I can return to various times in one trip, is Cantinetta dei Verrazzano (via dei Tavolini 18/20 r, 055.268.590). -- B.K.

NOTE: If you're not a paid subscriber to DOI, subscribe today and you will receive the June issue as your first newsletter and we will give you a FREE copy of A Romantic's Guide to Italy.
You may also purchase the June issue as part of our special "Dream of Tuscany" Folder! The executive folder includes copies of our special reports on Chianti, villa rentals and Florence (the June issue) -- perfect if you are planning a trip to Tuscany this summer! You can purchase it here for $30 and we will send it out ASAP!

That Language We Love -- Italiano

2005-06-22T11:48:00.000-04:00

Italian is currently spoken by about 70 million people around the world, in Italy and 29 other countries. It is the official language of Italy, San Marino and the Ticino and Grigioni cantons of Switzerland. It is the second official language in Vatican City and in some areas of Istria in Slovenia and Croatia with an Italian minority. It is widely used by immigrant groups in Luxembourg, the U. S., Venezuela, Brazil, Argentina, Canada, and Australia, and is also spoken in neighboring Albania. Italian is also spoken to a lesser extent in parts of Africa formerly under Italian rule such as Somalia, Libya, and Eritrea. On Malta, too, Italian is widely known and taught and served as the official language until English was adopted in its 1934 Constitution.

Italian enthusiasts may be interested in subscribing to one or more of Accademia La Crusca’s periodicals, which are, in typical Italian fashion, beautifully printed. The organization has three annual publications and La Crusca per voi, published bi-monthly.

Readers interested in learning, or improving upon, Italian will find no shortage of classes to take or language courses to peruse. A few resources are:

Self-Study Courses

Living Language: the pioneer in foreign language self-study courses, founded in 1946. Courses are available in book, CD, cassette, video, and DVD formats for beginner, intermediate, and advanced students. Courses include Complete Course: The Basics, Drive Time, In-Flight, Ultimate Beginner-Intermediate, Ultimate Advanced, Parla Italiano?, All-Audio, Without the Fuss, Languages for Travelers, Baby’s First Steps, Learn Together for the Car, Learn Together in the Kitchen, Bravissimo!, and a new interactive program, 2,000+ Essential Italian Verbs.

Acquerello Italiano: a bimonthly audiomagazine for students of Italian language and culture, but not for beginners. Editions are available in either cassette or CD and each program, featuring topics ranging from politics, music, film, travel, opera, interviews, and current events, is one hour in length. The broadcasts are presented in Italian by native speakers. An annual subscription on cassette is $99 or $189 for two years; on CD, subscriptions are $110 for one year and $211 for two. Each recording comes with a magazine that includes a word for word transcription, an extensive glossary, and URLs for related websites.

Italian Classes in Florence

British Institute of Florence: founded in 1917, the British Institute is a nonprofit organization whose mission is to promote British culture in Italy and Italian culture to English-speaking visitors. The BI also maintains a library of English books, housed in Palazzo Lanfredini, which it inherited from Sir Harold Acton. Language courses are offered for beginners, intensive beginners, and intermediate as well as intensive study courses offered for one week and Living Italian offered for three months. A two-week Italian Summer School is also offered in August. Language courses range in price from about $190 a week to $1,750 for 12 weeks. Drawing, watercolor, art history, Tuscan cooking, wine and food, and opera courses are also offered. The BI also has an accommodation advisor to help students find living quarters if needed, and it has access to a limited number of rooms in self-catering accommodations often shared with Italian or foreign students to be booked at least three months in advance. The British Institute is located at piazza Strozzi 2, (39) 055.2677.8222

Centro Lingua Italiana Calvino: CLIC is an Italian language school authorized by the Italian Ministry of Education. Language courses offered are superintensive (6 hours per day), standard (4 hours per day), and holiday (2 hours a day). Courses range in price from about 140 euros for one week to 2,160 euros for a three week individual program. In addition, a great number of organized activities are arranged, including visits to museums, dinners, concerts, games, lectures, cinema shows, guided walks around Florence, and trips to other towns in Tuscany. CLIC also offers cooking and computer graphics classes, and offers housing in apartments, even for families. The school is located at viale Fratelli Rosselli 74, 055.288.081

Classes in the U. S.

Istituto Italiano di Cultura: the Italian Cultural Institute not only offers language classes but is a great organization to help keep you immersed in all things Italian. If you live in New York, Chicago, Los Angeles, San Francisco, or Washington, D. C. you may partake in all the classes, lectures, and special events organized by the ICI. But if you do not, you may still find the ICI’s website (http://www.italcultny.org/) a useful reference as it has links to scholarships and grants for American citizens to study in Italy; Italian private schools offering language courses; Italian public institutions offering courses for foreigners; and scholarships for studying Italian language and culture in Italy available through the ICI.

All the North American offices of the Italian Government Tourist Board have a number of brochures for language classes both domestically and in Italy. Offices are located in New York, Chicago, Los Angeles and Toronto.

Finally, many colleges and universities offer language courses during the summer months that are open to adults at every level, and Italian students studying here often advertise their services for teaching Italian. If you really want to learn, it’s not that difficult to find a tutor or a class.

As an aside, if you need help translating a fax, e-mail, letter, or text of any kind, try logging onto www.altavista.com. Users simply click on the word “translate” (don’t worry that only English and Spanish appear on the right side of the screen), then type in the word or phrase you want translated, select from English to Italian, and click again on “translate.” It works from Italian to English, too. This is particularly helpful when viewing websites that are exclusively in Italian.

-- Barrie Kerper, special contributing editor to the June issue of Dream of Italy and author of the The Collected Traveler series of books

A Very Special Italian Cruise

2005-06-20T16:03:00.000-04:00

A once-in-a-lifetime trip has come to our attention -- offered by the National D-Day Museum, the Victory in Europe Cruise (on the luxurious Seabourn Legend) will explore the history of Italy's role in World War II by visiting important battlefields. This eight-day tour leaves from Nice, France sailing to Livorno (on the Tuscan coast) through the Tyrrehnian Sea, along the Amalfi Coast, ending in Rome. Stops will be made at Salerno, Pompeii, Monte Cassino, Anzio, Nettuno and other noteworthy places.

A distinguished group of authors, historians and WWII veterans -- including brothers Raymond and Irvin Wells, members of the 36th infantry division, former Air Force pilot Senator George McGovern, historical consultant Hugh Ambrose (son of author Stephen Ambrose), author Robert Katz and WWII war correspondent Peter Tompkins -- will lead the tour. These men will bring to life the unforgettable events of the war through a series of lectures, presentations, on-site accounts and even casual mealtime conversations.

Guests will also have the opportunity to explore other eras of Italian history along with way, through optional visits to art museums, monuments or perhaps by just strolling around a Renaissance town nibbling gelato and soaking up the rich regional culture.

The result is a singular/one-of-a-kind tour through Italy to discover the rich, yet haunting history of WW II in Italy, which forms the backdrop for the breathtaking culture and sights of Italy today. Keep in mind that all of this takes place on one of the most luxurious sea liners around—the Seabourn Legend, which accommodates only 208 passengers, making this a highly personal experience. The Victory in Europe Cruise runs October 16 to 23, 2005. The cost starts at $7,990 per person. – Cailin Birch, Dream of Italy editorial assistant

Special Thanks to Our June Sponsors

2005-06-19T23:02:00.000-04:00

Amalfi Life - unparalleled access to the authentic life of Italy's Amalfi Coast through tours, villa rentals, weddings, cooking programs, etc.
Chiantionline - villa rentals, organic olive oil and information about Chianti
Dream of Italy Designs - fine Venetian glass jewelry created by the masters
Giovanni Musella's Limo Service in Rome
Shop Wine and Dine- luxury oeno-gastronomic tours
Tripinsurancestore.com - discover how to protect yourself and your trip for pennies on the dollar
Vatican Tours Inc.- private, personalized tours in Rome and beyond

File Under Weird: Berlusconi's Liposuctioned Fat

2005-06-19T19:42:00.000-04:00

Yuck! At this weekend's Art Basel, the international art show featuring over 270 of modern and contemporary art galleries from around the world, a bar of soap, purportedly made from Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi's fat, removed during liposuction, sold for $18,000!

Gianni Monti's work called "Clean Hands" -- the title is a play on the name of an anti-Mafia group -- was purchased by a private Swiss collector. See the famous or infamous bar of soap here.

Tuscany Trip for Breast Cancer Survivors

2005-06-15T22:11:00.000-04:00

I learned about a unique small tour to Italy today -- Classic Journeys has organized a week-long tript to Tuscany for breast cancer survivors and their loved ones. In the U.S. today, there are more than two million breast cancer survivors. All of the profits from the trip will be donated to the Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundation. The trip, September 4 - 10, 2005, begins in Florence and ends in Cortona.

We follow a web of magical footpaths that lead us along vineyard trails and cobbled-stone lanes to the castle-topped hills of Chianti. Among our delights are private visits to friends' houses, a cooking demonstration, wine tastings and sampling plenty of sumptuous Tuscan cuisine. Siena, Pienza, San Gimignano and Montepulciano are all names that quickly roll off your tongue, but the memories each of these special places evoke will surely last a lifetime. Over the week we'll walk and talk, laugh and cry as we celebrate everyone who has shown us what true strength, determination and courage are all about.

The $2,995 land-only cost includes all breakfasts, five dinners, one lunch and one cooking class. There's an additional $355 charge for single supplement.

Summer Deal: Rome's Lord Byron

2005-06-13T11:42:00.000-04:00

I had the pleasure of staying at Rome's Lord Byron Hotel in February. I have long heard about this 5-star property and wanted to try it for myself. While I had a wonderful experience, I concluded that the hotel is not for everyone.

If you're on your first trip to Rome or plan to spend most of the time in the center, this may not be the place for you (you need to take a bus or 10-minute taxi ride to get to the center). But if you're planning on spending some time in the Borghese Gardens and the Villa Borghese, the location is ideal and might be of interest to those who have already spent plenty of time in Rome.

The best feature of the Lord Byron -- undoubtedly, the excellent service! The staff are simply the best, helpful yet, understated and have the perfect response to any situation. I have been told that they are particularly good with children -- a friend just raves about how nice they were to her kids.

My least favorite aspect -- the decor in the rooms. I'm not sure that all of the rooms look like this, but I likened the furnishing in my room to that of a Russian dacha! Later, I learned that the Byron does get a number of Russian visitors. The carpeting was red, the furniture was white and if I remember correctly, the walls were tan. It just wasn't my taste.

The price is right for a stay at the Lord Byron. The hotel has a summer deal: stay a minimum of two nights (arrive any day of the week) in a double classic room with daily breakfast for the excellent rate of 180 € per night, plus tax.

There's a similar deal available at Lord Byron's sister hotel in Florence, the Hotel Regency. For 180 € a night, plus tax, you can stay in a double classic room with daily breakfast. (Two-night minimum.)

Know of any other summer deals? E-mail me at kathy at dreamofitaly dot com

"Decameron" Brings Hollywood to Tuscany and Rome

2005-06-11T13:11:00.000-04:00

Did you enjoy Hayden Christensen in the Star Wars flick "Revenge of the Sith"? You'll be seeing more of him oncscreen next year. Christensen has been in Tuscany and Rome filming "The Decameron," a film based Giovanni Boccaccio's classic 14th century novel, chronicling the stories the citizens of Florence tell each other as they succomb to the Plague.

Christensen is only one of the big names associated with the movie: "The O.C." actress Mischa Barton co-stars; Roberto Cavalli is designing the costumes; Dino De Laurentiis directs.

In other movie news, filiming of "The Young Hannibal," prequel to the 2001 film "Hannibal" is set to begin in Tuscany in September.

Preview: Dream of Italy's June Issue

2005-06-02T18:20:00.000-04:00

Going to Florence this summer? Don' t miss our June issue! Its a 12-page special report devoted exclusively to Firenze -- from reviews of three new hotels to a conversation with one of the grand dames of Florentine cusine -- packed with must-have information that I promise you won't find in guidebooks.

Subscribe to Dream of Italy now and receive the June issue hot off the presses and a FREE copy of the new book, A Romantic's Guide to Italy. The subscription price includes online access to THREE YEARS of back issues with dozens of articles on all corners of Italy.

Here are some of the features in the June issue (out next week) include:

Three Elegant Hotel-Residences in the Heart of Florence
A Visit to Harold Acton's Villa La Pietra
The Dream Interview: Faith Willinger
How to Really Stay in A Room With A View
A New Restaurant From One of the Famed Latini Brothers
Florence's Newest Gelato Shop
...and much more!

For Young Italophiles/Bibliophiles

2005-05-30T13:26:00.000-04:00

I credit my love of history in part to the trip to England my parents took me on when I was 10. I encourage all parents who can afford it -- to take their children abroad at around this age -- it can literally change the course of their lives...

If you're taking the kids to Italy this year or just want to encourage their love of history, be sure to get them reading! A review of The Enemies of Jupiter by Caroline Lawrence (in yesterday's Washington Post) caught my eye. Here's what reviewer Elizabeth Ward had to say:

Some lucky kids might be headed to Italy this summer, but stay-at-homes can compensate with the "Roman Mysteries" -- a detective/adventure series set in and around 1st-century Rome, by a writer trained in archaeology, Latin and Hebrew. The Enemies of Jupiter is the seventh title in the series, which stars four bright children who have forged a bond despite differing social, ethnic and religious backgrounds. They are also regular magnets for trouble. Here the quartet gets to help the Emperor Titus pinpoint the cause of a plague sweeping the city. The books' plots are blithely improbable, in the manner of a Boxcar Children or Cam Jansen mystery, and the dialogue can be stilted ("The fate of Rome may be in your hands!"). But the series shines in its depiction of daily life, reflecting Lawrence's scholarly interest in everything to do with ancient Rome, from language, social structure and architecture to food and medicine. Kids who immerse themselves in these books -- and 11 more are promised, including The Gladiators From Capua in October -- will be well prepared to appreciate Italy when (or if) they do get there.

Pinch Euros on Summer Hotel Stays

2005-05-29T13:09:00.000-04:00

One of my favorite things about Sunday is reading the big newspapers; you guessed it, I turn to the travel section first. But there's also a great travel-related piece in today's New York Times Sunday Business section. "Some Ways to Pinch Euros on Summer Hotel Stays," has some excellent tips for securing the best rates at European hotels. Here is an excerpt:

Be flexible about your date of arrival in a particular city. Some hotels may charge less for midweek stays, while business hotels may offer discounts on weekends.
If you plan to stay more than one night at a particular hotel, ask it or your travel agent or tour company about special rate plans. If you book four nights at the same hotel through a general travel Web site, for example, the hotel may offer a fifth night free. Booking an airfare/hotel package can also produce savings.
Negotiate with the hotel for a better price. This may work about 25 percent of the time, some experts say.

Use search engines like kayak.com, mobissimo.com and sidestep.com, which comb a variety of travel Web sites for information.

Grazie Mille to Our May Sponsors

2005-05-24T21:30:00.000-04:00

Amalfi Life - unparalleled access to the authentic life of Italy's Amalfi Coast through tours, villa rentals, weddings, cooking programs, etc.
Chiantionline - villa rentals, organic olive oil and information about Chianti
Cantalupo Tours - in 2005, tour Sicily's culinary splendor
Dream of Italy Designs - fine Venetian glass jewelry created by the masters
Giovanni Musella's Limo Service in Rome
Gourmet Getaways - a selection of cooking schools and tours throughout Italy
Shop Wine and Dine- luxury oeno-gastronomic tours
Tripinsurancestore.com - discover how to protect yourself and your trip for pennies on the dollar
Vatican Tours Inc.- private, personalized tours in Rome and beyond
The Villa People- distinctive Mediterranean property rentals

Linda's Venice Food Finds

2005-05-24T11:14:00.000-04:00

We didn't have room for this sidebar in the May issue of Dream of Italy, so we're providing it here. (The entire May issue which is a special report on Venice is available to paid subscribers only.) Linda Burbank is a travel writer who spent the winter living in Venice. Here are some of her favorites places to eat:

Osteria Al Mascaron
Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa
Castello 5225
(39) 041 52255995
Go for the famous spaghetti all'astice and fresh seafood. Communal seating.

Corte Sconta
Calle del Pestrin
Castello 3886
(39) 041 5227024
Closed Sunday and Monday. Also closed for four weeks in the winter and four weeks in the summer.
If you go, start with the seafood appetizer sequence and don't even think about ordering anything else until you've finished that.

Rosticceria San Bartolomeo
Calle della Bissa
San Marco 54212/A
Closed Wednesday and Sunday.
For take-out roast chicken and vegetables.

Ciap Ciap
Calle del Mondo
Castello 5799/A
Closed Tuesday.
Some of the best take-out pizza in town.

La Maison de la Crepe
Salizzada San Giovanni Crisostomo
Cannaregio 5781
Sweet and savory crepes to go; plus gelato.

Enoteca La Cantina
Strada Nova
Cannaregio 3689
(39) 041 5228258
Friendly wine bar with small kitchen serving local specialties.

The 411 on Italian Strikes

2005-05-16T13:33:00.000-04:00

Italy, wouldn't be Italy without strikes (scioperi). A few weeks before you leave for Italy, it always pays to check on potential strikes scheduled during your visit. While Italian unions are notorious for their frequent stirkes, if there's one upside, they usually plan them well in advance. Since they're often cancelled or rescheduled, it's important to keep checking on their status.

One of the best resources for information on Italian strikes is the Web site, What's On in Rome. The editor not only lists the strikes planned in Rome and other areas of the country for the coming month, but she keeps her strikes page constantly updated, indicating which ones have been cancelled.

Another page on her site gives helpful instructions on deciphering the Web site of the Commissione di Garanzia, the Italian strike authority.

Venice Blogs

2005-05-12T11:44:00.000-04:00

The May issue of Dream of Italy (which is also a special report on Venice) is just about off to the printer. It includes a blurb on some of the Venice blogs I like:

Mystery writer Sharon Zukowski recently started a blog called Weird Venice, filled with photos and covering quirky news from La Serenissima. A recent entry explores how fellow mystery writer (her books are based in Venice) Donna Leon really feels about the city’s numerous American tourists.

Former Venice resident Norman Hajjar’s Venice Blog is clearly a labor of love. He posts frequently about Venetian politics, the sinking of the city and historical intrigues.

Mais Oui! Fly Air France CHEAP to Italia!

2005-05-06T15:39:00.000-04:00

Air France is offering a special that will knock your socks off!

To celebrate the one-year anniversary of Air France’s listing on the New York Stock Exchange on May 5 (5/05), fly to Paris for $299 and add as little as $5.05 to travel round trip to one of five cities in France (Nice, Bordeaux, Lyon, Marseille, Toulouse) or $50.05 round trip to one of eight cities in Europe (Barcelona, Lisbon, Milan, Rome, Venice, Florence, Geneva, Zurich). Purchase by May 15, 2005, and depart between November 1, 2005 and March 31, 2006. There are no blackout dates!

Special Summer Offer at Venice 5-Star Hotel

2005-05-03T21:53:00.000-04:00

I can talk about Italy anytime, anywhere. Last week, I was in the dog park and the owner of Buster, the beagle mix was raving about his stay last year at Venice's San Clemente Palace. I just received news of a special deal the hotel is offering to American guests this summer (specifically in May, July and August). Book a junior suite for three nights for $515 per night. Anyone who knows Venice hotel prices knows that this is a steal for a 5-star property. The special rate includes private water taxi from the airport, daily breakfast and private water shuttle to/from St. Mark’s Square. For more about where to stay in Venice, don't miss the forthcoming May issue of Dream of Italy, which is a special report on Venice!

Save $25 on Alitalia Tickets

2005-05-02T22:45:00.000-04:00

From Alitalia:

Come celebrate our new homepage with this $25 e-Coupon offer! Simply buy your ticket online between April 29 and May 26, 2005 and receive a $25 discount off your ticket purchase. To take advantage of this exclusive offer, simply go to www.alitaliausa.com select your flights and dates and enter SPRINGPROMO in the promo code box on the Ticket Details page and the $25 will be deducted from your total amount. This code can be used for tickets purchased exclusively at www.alitaliausa.com between April 29 and May 26, 2005.

How to Fly to Italy Cheap(er) This Year

2005-04-26T23:07:00.000-04:00

(Editor's note -- Joe -- that's Joe Brancatelli of Joesentme.com -- is back and he has some great advice. Listen up kids! Here's his article:)

You say you want to be in Italy this year, but you're appalled by the airfares.

The bad news: Get used to it.

Italy isn't England, where flights from the United States leave every hour on the hour and ticket prices are startlingly low. It isn't Ireland, where Aer Lingus has slashed and simplified transatlantic fares. It isn't even France or Germany, where Lufthansa and Air France give the U.S. airlines a run for their transatlantic money and keep fares down. Italy, unfortunately, has the backward Alitalia and Alitalia is a member of the SkyTeam Alliance that includes three of the five (Northwest, Continental and Delta) U.S. airlines that serve the peninsula. This combination of cupidity and oligarchy is bad news for bargain-hunting travelers.

The good news: There are options.

Despite what you thought--or your travel agent or Web site may have suggested--you can book a flight to Italy at a reasonable price. You just need to think strategically, act tactically and be flexible. You also need to accept that the paucity of airline seats and the popularity of Italy means that it'll always cost you a little more to fly to La Dolce Vita.

With that in mind, here are some tips for flying better and cheaper to Italy.

FORGET COACH. FLY BUSINESS CLASS.
Counter-intuitive as it sounds, it may be more cost effective this year to fly to Italy in the comparatively sumptuous surroundings of business class than in the cramped, unpleasant coach cabins.

A roundtrip coach ticket to Rome, Milan or Venice--the three nonstop destinations offered by the U.S. carriers and Alitalia--will run $1,200 or more on some days during the summer. But both Continental Airlines and Alitalia are offering deep, deep discounts on their business-class cabins. If you buy 50 days in advance and stay over on a Saturday night, you can find a roundtrip business-class ticket for as little as $1,600 from New York. Delta and Northwest Airlines are making similar offers.

How do you find these great deals? You need to look for them. Sadly, most airline Web sites, third-party booking engines and bricks-and-mortar travel agencies are reflexively trained to retrieve only coach fares. On Web sites, select the "more options" link off the home page and search for business class. If you work through a travel agents, make sure to ask them to check business-class prices for you.

FORGET NONSTOPS. MAKE A CONNECTION.
The limited selection of nonstop flights into Italy isn't the only way to fly. If you're willing to accept a connection, you'll stand a good chance of getting your Italy airfares down.

Four carriers in specific--British Airways, Air France, Aer Lingus and Lufthansa--offer an extensive number of flights from the United States and a range of onward flights from their hub to Italy. This comparative bounty of seats means that you may often score a lower price to Italy if you make a connection in London, Paris, Dublin, Frankfurt or Munich. How much can you save? Two or three hundred dollars in the off-peak periods and $300 or more during peak Italy travel times.

There are extremely cost-effective business-class options with a connection, too. Aer Lingus sells roundtrips in business class to Dublin for as little as $1,900 roundtrip and it doesn't even require a an advance purchase. Onward coach flights from Dublin to Naples and other Italian destinations will cost as little as $100 roundtrip more. With a 50-day advance purchase, Air France is selling business-class roundtrips to Italy via Paris for as little as $2,200 roundtrip.

Making a connection in England, France or Germany en route to Italy has another advantage: You'll get a wider choice of destinations. Besides Rome, Milan and Venice, British Airways flies to more than a half-dozen other Italian airports, including Pisa, a great gateway to Tuscany. From Paris, Air France flies to Florence, Tuscany's largest airport, as well as cities such as Genoa, the gateway to the Cinqueterre and the Italian Riviera and Catania, a good place to start a Sicily trip.

And besides its own network of Italian flights from Frankfurt and Munich, Lufthansa is a part owner of Air One, one of Italy's major discount airlines. If you purchase a ticket to Italy on Lufthansa, you can also buy a Visit Italy pass from Air One. That program offers as many as four one-way flights within Italy for as little as $41 each.

FORGET ROME. START IN LONDON.
London is now the transatlantic gateway to low fares thanks to the roster of scheduled flights from the United States and the fast growth of Ryanair, Europe's largest discount airlines. Any major U.S. airline can fly you to London. Virgin Atlantic has extensive schedule, too. British Airways flies to London from 19 U.S. airports. That many flights means lots of bargains, with flights to London as low as $99 each way in winter and less than $250 even during some peak travel times.

Once you get to London, you can hop a flight to Italy on Ryanair. From its hub at Stansted Airport in London, Ryanair flies to 13 destinations in Italy. In many cases, Ryanair flies to smaller airports such as Brescia, Bergamo, Pescara and Rome's Ciampino Airport. They might not be as convenient to the big cities, but they are often closer to the rustic Italian countryside that so many Americans wish to visit.

Ryanair's fares are eye popping. From Stansted to Pisa, for example, the maximum roundtrip fare is about $120, but it's often as low as $30 roundtrip. Or try this: Ryanair charges just $40 one-way to fly from London to Trieste. Alitalia's one-way fare from Rome to Trieste is more than $250.

So consider spending a night or two in London at the start of your Italian vacation. Using a bargain fare to London and Ryanair's cheap service to Italy, you'll probably save enough money to cover your hotel costs in the British capital.

(A note of caution: Ryanair's low fares do not come without concessions. Most notably: Ryanair's free checked luggage allowance is just 15 kilograms, or about 33 pounds per passenger. BA and the other transatlantic carriers permit you to check up to 140 pounds for free. So if you're planning on flying Ryanair, travel light. Or check some of your baggage at Stansted's "left luggage" office. Or be prepared to pay Ryanair's excess luggage charge of about $5 a pound.)

FORGET WHAT YOU KNOW. FIND A NEW DISCOUNTER.
Europe's skies are filled with jets run by discount airlines that Americans have never heard of. In fact, WhichBudget.com, which tracks these things, says that 31 Italian airports now have discount service from at least one low-fare airline. If you're trying to get to Florence, for example, an excellent low-fare carrier called Meridiana can fly you from Madrid or Amsterdam. If you can get to Geneva cheap, a Swiss discounter called FlyBaboo will happily fly you to Florence. If you can get to Brussels cheap, an Italian low-fare carrier called Club Air can fly you from Brussels to Verona, a perfect place to start if you're looking to visit the Veneto.

So check with WhichBudget.com and see if you can match a low transatlantic fare with a low-priced onward ticket to Italy. You'll be surprised at how many options you have and how far intra-Europe airfares have fallen.

FORGET SCHEDULES. GO CHARTER.
Americans hate charters, more for historical than practical reasons. But European holidaymakers--that Eurotalk for vacationers--rely on charters all the time. They're cheap and they fly direct to where you want to go. And, these days, the in-flight experience that charters offer often matches or exceeds what you'll get on a U.S. scheduled carrier.

This summer, an Italian charter airline called Eurofly is crossing the pond. It will fly nonstop from New York Palermo, which means Americans finally have a nonstop option to Sicily. Eurofly is also flying nonstop from New York to Naples, which is a godsend for Americans who want to do the Amalfi Coast. Eurofly will also fly to Bologna nonstop from New York. You'll need to contact a travel agent to book Eurofly, but the prices are attractive: as little as $649 roundtrip. Service starts June 13 and runs until mid-fall.

FORGET "RESTRICTED" MILES. PAY DOUBLE.
Want to cash miles for a free ticket to Italy this summer? Easily done. Just pay the unrestricted level, which is generally twice the number of miles of the "restricted" awards. Think that's unfair? Too bad. What part of restricted did you think the airlines were kidding about? There simply won't be a free mileage awards available at the lower-priced restricted level this summer and very few restricted seats are available in the shoulder seasons in the spring and fall.

So why waste your time? If you've got the mileage required for an unrestricted award, spend it. Unrestricted awards are blissfully simple: If there's an empty seat on the day you want to fly on the flight you wish to book, it's yours.

One last point: Forget the upgrade gambit. Once upon a time, airlines used to allow you to buy a cheap coach seat to Italy and then use a relatively modest amount of miles to upgrade to business- or first-class. Not anymore. They either restrict the upgrade award to the highest-priced coach tickets or they charge you so much to use your upgrade--it's $250 plus 25,000 mile each way at American--that you're better off buying one of those discounted business-class seats that are available.

Copyright © 2005 Joe Brancatelli

Save € in Rome This Summer

2005-04-22T10:26:00.000-04:00

Although the weak dollar doesn't seem to be holding many Italophiles back from visiting Italy this summer, a popular topic in the travel media is how to save money in Europe this summer. Christopher Elliott wrote this piece for U.S. News and World Report. Here's his advice on Rome, including some advice from yours truly:

When in Rome, sleep like a nun. A room with two beds at the Casa D'Accoglienza S. Spirito convent is about $52 a night. But no late nights--curfew is 11 p.m. A list of convents with rooms to let is at santasusanna.org/comingToRome/convents.html. And when you fly in, don't hail a taxi to the center of town--it's a staggering $80. The airport train, says Lisa Byrne, manager of the travel website italyperfect.com, is $13. Another rail deal is TrenOK, a train patterned after bargain airlines. Rome to Milan is 9 euros one way (www.trenok.com) . For frugal shoppers, Kathy McCabe, editor of dreamofitaly.com, a travel newsletter, recommends one of the new outlet malls. McArthurGlen Designer Outlet (www.mcarthurglen.it) , about 45 minutes from Rome, discounts Dolce & Gabbana and Bruno Magli. And don't forget, Vatican museums are free the last Sunday of the month.

For Some Gamblers, A Papal Payoff

2005-04-19T18:24:00.000-04:00

You know I can't resist the whole "betting" angle of the election of the new Pope. MSNBC.com reports that some folks won big:

"When Cardinal Joseph Ratzinger was elected pope, he wasn't the only winner. Thousands worldwide placed bets on him through the Web — and an inspired few hundred even correctly guessed he'd take the name Benedict.

Among a handful of Internet-based bookmakers who offered odds on the next pope, the biggest player was Paddy Power PLC, the No. 1 bookie in Ireland.

Minutes after Benedict XVI appeared in St. Peter's Square, Paddy Power was collecting — or paying out — on more than 10,000 bets totaling more than $260,000.

The biggest winners: Someone who put down $1,050 Saturday on a Ratzinger victory at odds of 6 to 1, which meant a payout of $7,350; and somebody else who waged $260 on the new pontiff's taking Benedict, which at 3-to-1 odds meant $1,050 back."

Pope's Inaugural Mass Sunday

2005-04-19T18:23:00.000-04:00

Pope Benedict XVI will hold his official inaugural Mass on Sunday at 10 a.m. We'll have more details on expected crowds, public transportation, etc. in the coming days.

Great Pope Names

2005-04-19T16:43:00.000-04:00

I know you've been wondering where my friend Joe has been, well, he's back with some interesting information on popes and their names. Joe has included more than a few obscure asides as well:

Since we now have a Pope Benedict, I thought I'd take a look at some other Pope names. After all, since I used to think all popes were named Pius, this is new to me.

Did you know that the second pope, chosen by Peter, was Pope Linus? No word on if he carried a security blanet.

Did you know that the third pope was named Pope Cletus? No word on if he was a slack-jawed yokel.

A very early pope was named Pope Zephyrinus. Which is interesting because that was the alternate name of the hit 1960s song by the Association called "Windy."

The name Pope Felix was chosen by at least six early popes, including one of the notorious anti-popes. But there's never been a Pope Oscar.

I don't know WHAT to do with a pope named Hormisdus.

Shortly after Hormisdus, there was a pope named Formosus. I got nothing on him except to note that late in his reign, Pope Formosus changed his name to Pope Taiwanus.

There was a pope named Damascus. I can't find one named Baghdad or Tel Aviv.

There were several popes named Urban. None named Rural, however.

Right after Pope Urban I, there was Pope Pontian. Unfortunately, the pope after him was NOT named Pope Gallerius. (This is a very obscure New York joke in Italy. Work it, it's worth it...)

There was a very early pope named Hyginus. His saint day is January 11. There is no pope named Bacterius.

There was an early pope named Fabianus. I found no record of an Elvisus or Dionus. Weirdly, however, there was one anti-pope named Leslie Gore.

There was a pope in the 4th Century named Sylvester. But no pope named Foghorn Leghorn.

There was a pope named Zosimus. Make up your own joke if you can.

There was a pope named Theodore. No popes named Alvin.

Yes, there was a Pope Vitalian. We await our first Pope Brylcremian.

Much to my surprise, there have be 13 popes named Leo, including Leo XIII, who ruled until 1903. Only his family called him Uncle Leo.

And, in conclusion, I give you this: the last Benedict, Benedict XV, was on the papal throne from 1914 to 1922. His family name was Giacomo della Chiesa. There is no truth to the rumor that Joseph Ratzinger, now Benedict XVI, is also known as Giacomo della Giungla. (You gotta work this one a bit...)

The 411 on Pope Benedict XVI

2005-04-19T13:28:00.000-04:00

Here are a few facts on the former Cardinal Joseph Ratzinger and his election as Pope:

Oldest cardinal to be named pope since Clement XII, who was also 78 when he became pope in 1730
First German pope since Victor II (1055-1057)
Had been considering retirement a few years ago, but stayed on out of allegiance to Pope John Paul II
First public words as Pope: "Dear brothers and sisters, after the great Pope John Paul II, the cardinals have elected me — a simple, humble worker in the vineyard of the Lord. The fact that the Lord can work and act even with insufficient means consoles me, and above all I entrust myself to your prayers."
Speaks German, Italian and English
I've mentioned how much I like John Allen's cover (I believe he now has a book contract to write about Ratzinger); see this page for his continuing coverage

WHITE SMOKE

2005-04-19T12:09:00.000-04:00

The smoke is white; the bells are ringing. We have a new Pope.

He has been asked if will accept the job and what he wishes to be called.

He will be escorted to "The Chapel of Tears" (see below) to dress in white vestments.

He will appear on the balcony within about 40 minutes.

Conclave Schedule

2005-04-18T12:09:00.000-04:00

According to AP, (all times EST):

Monday, April 18
-4 a.m.: Cardinals celebrate a morning mass.
-10:30 a.m.: Cardinals process into the Sistine Chapel. They take their oath of secrecy and hear a meditation from a senior cardinal, then decide whether to take a first vote Monday or wait until Tuesday morning.

Tuesday, April 19
-1:30 a.m.: Cardinals celebrate mass in the hotel chapel.
-3 a.m.: Cardinals gather in Sistine Chapel for initial two rounds of balloting.
-6 a.m.: Approximate time of first smoke signal from Sistine Chapel. It will indicate whether a new pope has been chosen (white smoke) or no decision has been made (black smoke) in the first round of balloting. The smoke is from the burning of the secret ballots after each round of voting.
-10:00 a.m.: Cardinals return to the Sistine Chapel for two rounds of afternoon balloting.
-1 p.m.: Approximate time of smoke signal after second round of voting.

The rest of the days of the conclave are expected to follow Tuesday's schedule. The Vatican spokesman said smoke signals from burned ballot papers could likely be seen each day - unless a winner is elected on Monday in a first ballot.

Special Vatican Stamps Sold Out

2005-04-18T12:03:00.000-04:00

The Vatican Post Office has sold out of 700,000 Sede Vacante stamps after just five days on sale. The special stamps are issued only during the period between the death of a Pope and the election of his successor.

Thank God: Gambling Not Against Church Teachings

2005-04-18T00:23:00.000-04:00

I can rest a little easier tonight, betting on the next Pope may not buy me a one-way ticket to hell. According to an article in USA TODAY, "It's not against church law to gamble — even Pope John Paul reaffirmed catechism teachings that said, 'Games of chance or wagers are not in themselves contrary to justice.' However, betting on papal elections was declared illegal in papal states by Pope Gregory XIV (1590-1591)."

Also in this article, the latest odds on 'the man who will be Pope' from the world's bookmakers:

William Hill, London
Joseph Ratzinger (Germany) 4 to 1
Jean Marie Lustiger (France) 9 to 2
Carlo Maria Martini (Italy) 6 to 1
(tied with) Francis Arinze (Nigeria) 6 to 1

Paddy Power, Dublin, Ireland
Joseph Ratzinger (Germany) 3 to 1
Jean Marie Lustiger (France) 9 to 2
Carlo Maria Martini (Italy) 5 to 1

Pinnacle Sports, London/Dutch Antilles
Joseph Ratzinger (Germany) 3 to 1
Francis Arinze (Nigeria) 6 to 1
Claudio Hummes (Brazil) 13 to 2

Sistine Chapel Ready for Conclave

2005-04-17T11:00:00.000-04:00

The New York Daily News reports the Sistine Chapel is all set to go for tomorrow's start of the conclave. In fact, there's even a back up stove in case the primary one doesn't work.

"...the chapel is now outfitted with 12 tables covered with a simple brown cloth, and wood chairs padded with brown cushions. A small table, with a copy of the Gospels on it, is at the center of the room between the two rows of cardinals."

"The conclave is taking place in the front of the chapel, on a temporary, carpeted floor about 3 feet above the original, built to protect the tiles - and to give officials a place to put electronics designed to jam cell phones or any other attempts to eavesdrop on the proceeding."

More on Pope Betting

2005-04-15T02:19:00.000-04:00

It's late or early, however you measure 2 a.m., and did I mention that I've been working my tail off? But before retiring for the night, I surfed over to tradesports.com - damn the man who got me addicted to this (I'm still worried about going to hell -- but do note that I haven't put any $$ on this- if you are thoroughly confused, read below...)

The latest is there's now a third category related to the future Pope -- region of origin. Currently, Europe is the favorite at 1 in 1.5 odds. Latin America is second with 1 in 3 odds.

Cardinal Ratzinger is still the favorite in terms of individuals and as I am writing this, the boards have closed for an hour for end of the day processing (according to my live chat friend at tradesports), so I can't report the exact odds, but stay tuned...

Gearing Up For The Conclave; The Sistine Chapel

2005-04-15T00:30:00.000-04:00

On a personal note -- and not to put it mildly -- the last two weeks have kicked my butt! I have thoroughly enjoyed reporting on the Pope's death and funeral and all of the travel-related issues surrounding the events in Rome, BUT I have also had to do the final edits on the April issue of Dream of Italy, so if blogging is a little light this week, that's why. The issue is off to the printer tomorrow (subscribers expect your copies slightly later than usual). But I'm hoping for a little downtime this weekend to recover from exhaustion and gear up for the Conclave next week.

The lead story in the April issue is a profile of Enrico Bruschini -- the art historian, author and true Renaissance man -- who can show you Rome (and specifically the Vatican and Vatican Museums) as no one else can.

Here's an excerpt of my article:

Enrico knows the Vatican so well that he was asked by the powers that be to author the latest official guidebook of the Vatican. Vatican Masterpieces, published in 2004, is sold in six languages at the entrance to the Vatican Museums and at kiosks throughout the institution. It’s the first Vatican guidebook to note the author’s name on the front.

It’s hard not to feel like you’re with a rock star when you accompany Enrico through the Vatican Museums. During even a short visit, it isn’t unusual for a handful of guides and sightseers to recognize Enrico, and to stop to say hello or compliment him on one of his books.

Heard while in line to get into the museums: “Aren’t you Enrico, from the American Embassy?”

Heard in the Map Room: “I loved your book.”

Heard in the Sistine Chapel, addressed to his lucky guests: “You are with the most wonderful scholar in the world. He’s the most important man in Rome besides the Pope.”

The last quote can be attributed to Brenda Nardone, a Mexican American tour guide now living in Italy. She admires Enrico so much that she had her group buy his book, and then tracked him down at the entrance to St. Peter’s Basilica so he could autograph their copies.

The highlight of the museums is undoubtedly the Sistine Chapel, restored to its full glory after 12 people took six years to clean the centuries of dirt off the walls and ceiling. One of the themes Enrico emphasizes throughout his tours of Rome is the pure genius of many of the people of yesteryear. He points out that those who cleaned the Sistine Chapel built the scaffolding in the same way Michelangelo had. “He invented the solution five centuries ago,” Enrico says.

Enrico had the rare honor of being invited to view the cleaning from atop the scaffolding. What followed was one of the highlights of his life. Since he was just a foot away from The Temptation and The Expulsion, he could see the lips on Eve’s face and how Michelangelo used a tiny brush to bring out the small vertical lines on her lips. “We could see how Michelangelo was painting for himself; no one else was going to see this detail,” Enrico says.

Even more startling to this art historian was what he saw in Eve’s eyes. Once the painting was cleaned, he could see fingerprints — certainly Michelangelo’s fingerprints — in her eyes. Enrico touches his heart while recounting the story. “It was amazing to see his fingerprints,” Enrico recalls, wondering if it was a message to future generations who might see the dried paint up close.

That’s another theme in Enrico’s tours, one that art buffs and novices alike can appreciate: What is the meaning of these works and does the meaning change and develop over time?

As much as Enrico enjoys instructing his clients, he seems to learn just as much from the questions and observations of his guests. One case in point is The Creation of Adam, on the ceiling of the chapel, which Bruschini believes definitely holds “a message for future generations.”

In 1990, an American neurologist observed that the mantle surrounding Adam is the exact shape of the human brain in cross-section. Bruschini theorizes this could be a message from Michelangelo, indicating that he saw the autopsy of a human brain. (During the artist’s time, this was illegal in Rome, but he may have seen it in Florence.)

A few years ago, an American female gynecologist told Enrico that the mantle resembled a uterus, and the green cord flowing from it resembled an umbilical cord. “I’ve seen a lot of uteruses. That’s my job,” she told him. He has included this theory in his books.

“These are new discoveries of the original messages. There are hundreds more to be discovered,” he says with excitement.

Besides being an incredible showcase of art, the Sistine Chapel also serves numerous functions, the most important of which is happening this month — the conclave of cardinals who are meeting in the chapel to pick the next leader of the Roman Catholic Church.

The uncle of Enrico’s wife, the priest Fra Alfonso Rossi, was a close assistant of several popes. During the conclaves, he was charged with helping the cardinals, burning the ballots and helping the new priest into his vestments. The priest accompanied several new popes into a room of the Sistine Chapel in order to help them dress in their new white cossack and shoes. Often the new pope, mindful of the burden now upon him, would break down in tears. Fra Alfonso was there to offer him support.

“Ah, it’s not easy to leave the Sistine Chapel,” says Enrico wistfully when it is time to move on, this coming from a man who has visited here hundreds of times.

Want to read more about Enrico? Become a paid subscriber and read the 2,000+ word article when it comes out next week!

Pope Coverage Prompts Surge in Italy Bookings

2005-04-15T00:02:00.000-04:00

Laura Bly has a short but sweet piece in today's USA TODAY about how bookings to Rome are booming in light of the Pope's death and all of the media coverage of the Eternal City.

She quotes yours truly in her piece: "It was a 24/7 commercial for Rome. While Catholics will make a pilgrimage to see the pope's burial place, people who may not have thought of visiting before might simply be moved by the beauty of what they saw on television," I said.

Bly also spoke to Amy Ziff of Travelocity who shared this amazing statistic: Rome bookings for next week shot up 86% from the same period a year ago!